Questions on my Husky that I need answered.

Question
QUESTION: Ok to start of sorry for all the questions I'm just a VERY curious person.

Information that might be helpful.
Female Husky.
2-3 Months old.

Questions=
1st.)How long does it take to digest huskies food?
I'm asking cause i would like to know around what time to take her to do poop after she has eater. She eats 8oz 2X a day (please let me know if thats to much or i need to feed her more.) how many times will she poop with each feeding?

2nd.) How many treats can i give her a day?
its  not listed on the back of my bag of treats for her.

3rd.) How long does it take a husky to normally dry its double coat?

4th.) What is the BEST dogfood to feed my Husky.
what ingredients should i be looking for or try and keep away from?

5th.)How many times should I wash my dog a week?

6th.)When I'm brushing her will she lose her fluffyness?
Alot of hairs show up on the brush after I'm done.

7th.)Should i limit her water intake? how long after she drinks will she be urinating?

8th.)I'm in the process of training her. so far she doesn't really poop inside but she doesn't urinate outside at ALL she ONLY urinates inside the house. what tips should i be using. I'm actually thinking of mopping my house with the NO-GO product for pups not to urinate in a certain place. would that help?

9th.)How can i stop my husky from nibbling my hands when trying to pet her or when others are trying to pet her. Also train her to nibble only when we are playing if possible i don't want to confuse her but if its possible I'm interested.

10th.)When is a good month/time to take my husky out for walks/runs in the streets/parks?

Marcus i would really appreciate it if they get answered ASAP. I'm trying to be a REALLY good trainer/owner to my husky i just want the BEST for her.

ANSWER: 1) Dog digestion:
  The canine digestive track is relatively short in comparison to the human omnivorous system.  I don't have a specific time frame, but it's just a few hours.  And as far as them eliminating, having food in their system stimulates that need.  So basically, they eat, and they have to get rid of what they had.  Usually, this happens within an hour or so (varies on the dog somewhat).  My one dog usually eats and runs straight outside; the other dog usually hangs out for about 20-30 minutes, and then wants out.  Generally, Sibes have extremely efficient metabolisms, and will eliminate once with each feeding.

2) Treats:
  Completely depends on the type of treats.  I usually give me dogs one decent sized treat in a day.  (Usually it's a peanut butter bone biscuit that's about a 3" bone.)  Then, a handful of small "puppy" treats.  You don't want anything too rich, or too much, but just keep an eye on the dogs.  Overall, you'll want to make sure that the dog is consistently gaining weight and that her stools are solid.  Runny or loose stools can be a sign of overeating.

3) Drying coat:
  Depends on the weather completely.  After the rare bath, I dry my dogs and then generally just keep them inside if it's cold out.  Usually, they are dry to the touch within a few hours, and completely dry in about 8-10 or so.  On warm days, letting them outside to bask in the sun, they dry out much quicker.

4) Best food:
  Look for food that has meat as the prime ingredients.  Also, look for food with about 30% protein, 20% fat.  If you can find food with higher percentages, that works too.  Sibes do great on high-protein diets.  Stay away from kibble with high concentrations of grains (wheat, corn, etc.).  They are pretty much indigestible to the dogs and just fillers.

5) Washing dog:
  Twice a year is about all you need.  Sibes have an oil on their coats that helps repel dirt (and water!) and too much washing actually strips that oil out and can lead to skin problems.  Generally, Siberians don't have much of a dog smell, and are relatively clean animals.  Bathing each year when they start to blow coat is a good idea and actually helps them get rid of their undercoat a little easier.  Other than that, unless the dog gets dirty, don't worry about bathing much.

6) Brushing:
  Using a slicker brush should be fine.  Sibes shed a lot, so don't be surprised to find half a dog worth of fur on the brush at the end.  The dog should still be fluffy afterwards.  During seasonal coat blows, you may find that the dog's coat thins out quite a bit, but that's normal while the new fur is coming in.

7) Water intake:
  Don't limit unless she is drinking so much she is spitting the water back up.  Generally, the dog drinking does not correlate directly to when they urinate, although taking water up 2-3 hours before bedtime can help prevent night time runs outside.

8) House training:
  Are you familiar with crate training?  By far the best and easiest method to housetrain your dog.  If you aren't familiar with it, or if you are having problems with it, feel free to write back and I can help you with that.  Also, Googling it will give you a solid understanding of it.

9) Nibbling:
  This is a little bit longer for this response, but I've dealt with it before.  You can check the archives, or (much easier), just write-in another question about this one in particular and I'll answer it.  (There is a text limit to each answer, and I think I might go over it if I add it here.  In any case, I'll have the answer prepared for you, so just ask and you should get a quick response)

10) Walks/Runs:
  Not sure if you are asking about the dog's age here or just generally a good time.  As far as the dog's age, many people recommend waiting until after the dog has her vaccinations, although I mainly stress that for interactions with other dogs.  Going out for walks and runs, you can start that at any age, just don't let her get too much time with other dogs until she is completely vaccinated.  As for times, if you live in warmer climates, early morning and late evenings are the best so she doesn't have to deal with the heat.  Otherwise, enjoy the time outside with her.

Let me know if I missed anything and I'll work on your nibbling answer now, just don't forget to write back in for the response!

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: first of all THANKS!!!
i REALLY apreciate everything.

You said to reply back about the nibbling problems.

heres the question again.

1st.)How can i stop my husky from nibbling my hands when trying to pet her or when others are trying to pet her. Also train her to nibble only when we are playing if possible i don't want to confuse her but if its possible I'm interested.


ANSWER: The nibbling and biting issues many people have had questions with, and I think the best way to start is with this advice:  (I'm copying and pasting it from a previous answer:

<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<
First, it is important to understand that dogs bite for two reasons: play and defense/aggression.  Nipping and leaving red marks (and possibly breaking the skin now and then) is a normal sign of play.  Siberians are well known for being an extremely playful breed, and also are well known for being very rambunctious when they play.  This nipping is typical.

So, now that you understand that the dog is "playing" it should help you redirect the behavior.  I personally encourage the playful interaction.  Since dogs associate with their world through their mouths, and is the main way that they play, I think it shows a strong bond that the dog wants to play with an owner.  So, rather than stop it, you have to set-up rules around the play.  Once those rules are established, dogs generally have pretty quick time understanding and following the rules.  Here's what I suggest:

First, get a pair of thick leather gloves.  Ray Allen Manufacturing makes some, but you can also go to a hardware store and look for some really thick ones.  I've also had luck finding leather welding gloves.  They aren't cheap, but they last a long time and it's worth it for the dog.  Next, put the gloves on and wrestle and play with your dog.  The bites won't go through the gloves, and if the dog bites too hard and the pressure hurts, correct the dog.  When play time is over (your decision), take the gloves off and put them away.  If the dog tries to continue to bite/play, correct the dog.  Soon, the dog will understand that gloves on equals playtime, gloves off means no.

As for the correction, it's a simple strong "NO!" and removing yourself from the situation.  If the dog persists, a quick grab of the neck can also be effective.  For the first few weeks, if the dog nips at you, immediately go get the gloves.  This will also help teach the dog that means play.  To this day, my dog (at 3 years old, and we started this method with her at 11 weeks old) will come up and bite my hand gently.  I then go get the gloves and we wrestle.

It appears that you are well aware that the nipping is playful, and you are trying to find a way to curb it but still wanting to play with the dog.  I think this is probably the best way.  The quick neck grab and verbal correction is usually quite sufficient in sternly telling the dog that play time is over or that it's not the right time.  Don't worry about that damaging a relationship with the dog, as it is simple, quick, and very canine-based feedback.  Hitting the dog is very rarely an effective method for communicating with your dog and something that I wouldn't recommend.

Hope that helps and let me know if you need anything else.  (By the way, remember the key to most dog training and especially this method - CONSISTENCY!)
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Try the glove method above, and you should notice that over time, the dog will associate gloves to playtime and no gloves to "be careful and don't bite."  Let me know how that works for you or if you have any other questions.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: THANKS alot!!

So far im doing better in my training my husky. all these tasks so far are working well. the only thing im having a little trouble with is the following.

1st. = Crate Training- im not sure which kind of crate to get...is there any style or size you reccomend? Should i put her food and water inside with her? toys? how much time should i keep her in there?

2nd. = How will the crate training help her not whine to much?

3rd. = Is it normal for my husky to sleep ALL day?
is it possible to train her to sleep at night when i sleep? then wake up when im up?

4th. = what are some things me and my husky can do to keep her from getting bored?

5th. = any reccomended items i should buy? toys, food, accessories, etc.

6th. = What are your comments on the FURminator? im interested in purchasing this weekend unless you recommend another product?

the 7th question is for my dog but about my moms dog.
im trying to get my moms dog to play with my husky but he tends to growl and he pounced on her once. he also tried to strike her with his paw. He is about 3-4 years old hes a mix breed with Great Dane and pitbull.

thanks ALOT MARCUS!!!!
for all your help.

thanks,
Richard.

Answer
1) A lot depends on the dog, but a metal crate works well for me.  I recommend finding a place, generally where you spend most of your time, where the crate can be up against as many walls as possible and if you can cover it with a blanket, it will help increase the den-like feeling to it and that generally makes the dog more comfortable.  You want it to be no bigger than enough for the dog to lay down in and turn around.  For crate training, the dog shouldn't be in there for more hours than the dog is months old plus one, and in no case should the dog be left there for more than 8 hours.  (e.g., 3 month old dog can be in for four hours)  I don't recommend leaving anything in there but maybe a chew toy.  Food and water in the crate could encourage elimination which you want to avoid.  Otherwise, the dog should be in the crate any time you can not watch it, but there is little need to have the dog in there any other time.

2) Eventually, she should view the crate as a time to relax and sleep.  But, Sibes are notorious for protesting vocally, so, well . . . sometimes you just have to deal with that.

3) Dogs are set up as carnivores biologically.  This means they sleep more than they are awake, so it's not uncommon for the dog to sleep a decent amount, and puppies do so even more.  To help the dog adjust to your schedule, encourage day time activities to tire the dog out for night time sleeping.  Of course, naps during the day are expected and healthy.  A good morning walk or run, a few play times in the afternoon, and then an evening workout of some sort is usually enough to get an adult dog on your schedule.  For puppies, you may want to eliminate some of the afternoon work to allow for more nap time.

4) Huskies were bred to do three things - run, pull and think on their own.  Anything you can do to help that will be fun for your dog.  Obedience training is a little difficult for Sibes at times, but a great challenge.  The important thing is to keep your dog's mind and body engaged as much as possible.  When walking or running my dog, I often give sled commands to help with directions.  Keeps the dog thinking and focused.  Play games with treats, and make the dog work for the rewards.  Sit, down, stay and heel should be taught without treats, but I have other commands like, spin, up, speak, crawl, etc. that are treat based and fun games for the dog to work with.

5) Some dogs love toys, some love treats, some love bones, some just want companionship.  Experiment with your dog and let them decide for you.  Beyond a leash and a good collar, high quality food, and a few treats thay your dog likes, the rest is up to you and her.

6) I've got one and it's the only thing that works on my female dog.  My male dog does fine with the cheaper shedding blade.  If your dog has a super soft coat that's easily brushed, you may not need to spend the money.  If the coat is a little coarse, you may have to go that route.

7) Keep interactions on neutral ground while leashed and supervised for a while.  Some dogs just don't get along, but take your time to make that judgement.  Also, keep in mind that some growling and swatting is good . . . they are figuring out each other.  It's a fine dance, but generally, just take your time and keep meetings short and supervised.  If things go without incident, try to get them more frequent.