Crate Training a 7wk old Husky mix pup

Question

Husky look-alike from   QUESTION: We've recently adopted a 7 week old Husky mix (we think) puppy from a rescue organization.  We checked a site with/ Black Husky pics and the pic below matches our puppy exactly, so we're pretty sure he at least has Husky in him.  We're attempting to crate train him.  We've bought a pretty big crate and have his bed on one side and newspaper on the other.  During the night, we're pretty good about getting up when he needs to go outside (twice a night so far) - but we both work and need to leave him for 4 hours in the morning and another 4 in the afternoon.  One of us comes home at lunch to clean his crate, feed him some food/water and let him out.  I've read that the proper way to crate train is to only have a crate space big enough for him to turn around.  If we did this, he would definitely eliminate on his bed, since he can only hold about 3 hours right now.  Are we doing the right thing (or the best possible under our circumstances)?  Please let me know.

ANSWER: Definitely not what I would recommend, but sounds like it may be the best answer for your situation.  As he gets older, you'll want to make sure to transition him from the "paper-training" method by moving those (slowly) to the outside.  You want to make sure that he gets it in his head that his crate is his bed, and not his bathroom.  However, beyond that, enjoy the new dog!

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QUESTION: Thanks for the quick response!  I have a follow-up question...  We've modified the plan by limiting the crate size when we're at home or nearby.  This encourages our puppy to hold it through the night or when we're gone for short periods of time.  We open-up the crate to the newspaper section when we're at work during the week.  We're still going home for lunch, but wanted to give the puppy an option if he has an urgent need to eliminate while we're gone.  Is this a better plan?  Please let me know.  Thanks!

ANSWER: Sounds like a good plan and if the pup is "getting it" (holding it in his bed area, and eliminating on the papers only), then really you have the best of both worlds.  I think you are doing great!  Keep it up and let me know if you have any other questions.

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QUESTION: Thanks again!  OK - one more question...  Dakota (our puppy) is starting to bite in play a lot.  He even lunges and bites.  We've corrected him by shouting "No Bite!" and grabbing the scruff of his neck and pushing him to the ground 'until he submits, but he'll get up and do it again.  I really want to discourage this behavior and would welcome any recommendations you have.

Answer
By doing this, you are actually encouraging play.  Your best bet is to take a look at some of my earlier posts about nipping puppies.  Here's an earlier answer that may help you get started in dealing with and redirecting this behavior:

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First, it is important to understand that dogs bite for two reasons: play and defense/aggression.  Nipping and leaving red marks (and possibly breaking the skin now and then) is a normal sign of play.  Siberians are well known for being an extremely playful breed, and also are well known for being very rambunctious when they play.  This nipping is typical.

So, now that you understand that the dog is "playing" it should help you redirect the behavior.  I personally encourage the playful interaction.  Since dogs associate with their world through their mouths, and is the main way that they play, I think it shows a strong bond that the dog wants to play with an owner.  So, rather than stop it, you have to set-up rules around the play.  Once those rules are established, dogs generally have pretty quick time understanding and following the rules.  Here's what I suggest:

First, get a pair of thick leather gloves.  Ray Allen Manufacturing makes some, but you can also go to a hardware store and look for some really thick ones.  I've also had luck finding leather welding gloves.  They aren't cheap, but they last a long time and it's worth it for the dog.  Next, put the gloves on and wrestle and play with your dog.  The bites won't go through the gloves, and if the dog bites too hard and the pressure hurts, correct the dog.  When play time is over (your decision), take the gloves off and put them away.  If the dog tries to continue to bite/play, correct the dog.  Soon, the dog will understand that gloves on equals playtime, gloves off means no.

As for the correction, it's a simple strong "NO!" and removing yourself from the situation.  If the dog persists, a quick grab of the neck can also be effective.  For the first few weeks, if the dog nips at you, immediately go get the gloves.  This will also help teach the dog that means play.  To this day, my dog (at 4 years old, and we started this method with her at 11 weeks old) will come up and bite my hand gently.  I then go get the gloves and we wrestle.

It appears that you are well aware that the nipping is playful, and you are trying to find a way to curb it but still wanting to play with the dog.  I think this is probably the best way.  The quick neck grab and verbal correction is usually quite sufficient in sternly telling the dog that play time is over or that it's not the right time.  Don't worry about that damaging a relationship with the dog, as it is simple, quick, and very canine-based feedback.  Hitting the dog is very rarely an effective method for communicating with your dog and something that I wouldn't recommend.

Hope that helps and let me know if you need anything else.  (By the way, remember the key to most dog training and especially this method - CONSISTENCY!)
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