Treefrogs

Question
Hey I saw that you could help me with my tree frogs!
I have 2red eyed tree frogs I've been reading up on them and found a lot of different answers to all the questions I had about them. I read on one site that the heat should stay on during the day and stay between 70-80 % kind of the same with the humidity on other sites I read that the heat should be lower! I'm really worried that I do anything wrong and they die! I only had them for a week and they seem to be doing fine.i would like someone that has red eyed tree frogs or knows exactly what he's talking about as like I said I'm worried! Also at night I turn the heater off but then it drops sometimes to as low as 50% is that normal? I also have a couple other questions like what else I can feed them than crickets and if they like different food or don't mind If it's just crickets! How do I tell If the frog ate? Since I have 2 frogs and crickets are gone in the morning after I fed them. I also check on them before I go to bed and sometimes I find a frog 9hours later after I slept in the same position as before. Did he not move at all is that okay for him to sleep for more then 24hours? I would like to watch them when I turn the lights of but infrared and moon light didn't work for me! Any tips and answers? I bought an automatic misting machine with different settings like every 1,3,6,12 hours for 5,10,15,30 seconds what would be the best setting? Do I need to put the vitam powder on the crickets every time I feed them? How often and how many crickets are they suppose to have?    Sooooo many questions :) like I said WORRIED !!!   Thanks for any help

Answer
Hi Ramona,

I will try to answer your questions in the order that you asked them. Red eyes are tropical so a suitable daytime temperature range is 75 to 85F. It can drop down to 65 to 75F at night.
You should be able to easily achieve that range with a regular incandescent household bulb over one end of the tank. A 60 to 75 watt bulb would likely be sufficient.

I'm not sure I clearly understood what happens when your heat goes off at night. Does the temperature or humidity drop to 50? The temperature of the tank will become the same as the surrounding room once the heat source is off. As long as your room is at least 65F at night then you should not have to provide any night time heat. The humidity can fluctuate to 50% at night without causing any concern.
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Crickets are suitable as their staple food. I would suggest medium sized crickets for adult red eyes. You can also offer other soft bodied larva such as waxworms or small mealworms. These are best offered in shallow ceramic dish that the frogs can easily see down into.
It is difficult to monitor their feeding without staying up all night! They are not very aggressive frogs so as long as they are similar in size and there is a suitable supply of crickets you can be fairly sure that each is getting its share. Keeping an eye on their body condition during the first few weeks is really the only way to really monitor feeding.

They will pick out a favourite sleeping area and often return to the same spot each morning. It can look like they never moved at all.

They are very light sensitive and even those "moonglow" type bulbs will trigger them to go back to sleep. I was only able to watch mine in lighting from the room they were in, as long as that was not overly bright! It can take an hour or more after lights out before they start waking up.

Automatic misters were not around when I had my red eyes but I would suggest starting with 5 seconds every 3 hours and see how that goes. You may need to increase that during the dry winter months and cut back during the humid summer months.

If your frogs are adult then supplementing with calcium/vitamins every second or third feeding is fine. Young frogs that are still growing can be supplemented more often.

You can offer food a couple times a week for adults and about 15 crickets for each frog per week is sufficient. Keep some live plants in the enclosure to give any uneaten crickets something to feed on.

Another important thing is to provide treated water rather then plain tap water. Use an aquarium dechlorinator that removes both chlorine and chloramines.