Gentle Leader collar

Question
Hi - My guy is 19 months old. Walking with a regular collar was/is a terrible experience....he pulls like crazy and I can barely control him. A Martingale collar did no good. I then got a "no-pull harness" which makes it possible to walk with him. However, I am concerned that he's always pulling somewhat and I think it must be, if not painful under his front legs, then at least uncomfortable. I don't want him to associate his walks with discomfort...tho he LOVES his walks. When he sees another dog, he pulls so much he yelps in pain and I can tell he's frustrated. Gentle Leader head collar or obedience from a trainer (basic training did little good)? Thanks for any advice.

Answer
This is a classic problem with Siberians who were bred to PULL.  It is in their nature, and they can do it really well too.  In fact, unlike a lot of other dogs, Sibes pull with their entire bodies pressed into the pull.  When going on a normal walk, this can cause pressure on the neck, pain, and actual damage to the throat.

My recommended solution is effective in almost all cases, but it requires diligence from the owner and an understanding that failure to do this will either: 1) Deprive your dog of walks; or 2) Cause serious, and sometimes irreparable, damage to your dog.

Here's the method.  There are three levels of collars to use for a dog on a walk - flat collar, slip-chain, prong collar.  Those are the only three you need, and they are listed above in order of increasing need.  Most people start with a flat collar, and if that doesn't work, move on to a slip-chain and then to a prong collar.  Martingales are somewhere between the flat and slip.  For cosmetic reasons, I recommend against the slip-chain for Sibes however (the chain has a habit of shaving fur off the dog's neck - not down to the skin, but just shortens the guard hairs there and it doesn't look right with the otherwise gorgeous coat).

Now, your dog is 19 months old and has been (I assume), pulling on walks for a while.  Chances are, the flat buckle collar will be ineffective.  So, get a German Prong Collar.  They look like medieval torture devices, but look closer - they are the IDENTICAL design to a Martingale - just have little prongs instead of fabric.  The purpose of the prongs - to get the dog's attention.  The limited slip of the Martingale design prevents a properly fitted prong collar from doing anything but working like little fingers to poke the dog.  If you aren't sure, take the collar and put it around your arm - test it out.  Don't press against it, just pop and release the tension quickly.  it will sting a little, but now imagine dog fur between that.  Should be all the padding you need.

Next thing - NEVER EVER use a flexi-lead.  Find one leash length (6' works well) and stick with it.  You are going to teach the dog to stay within 6' of you at all times.  A flexi-lead, while providing the dog more freedom, is too random to help with this exercise.  He has to know that 6' is all the room he has.

Now, the process is simple.  The dog has free run while on walks UNTIL he gets to the end of the 6' lead.  Once he does, it's a quick "pop" and release.  The idea is too surprise the dog much in the same manner a mother would to her newborn pups.  Quick grab of the neck and a young puppy knows that he needs not to cross a line.  The "release" is also extremely important - you don't want the dog to be putting all that pressure on his neck.  So, the pop and release is to be done quickly and sharply right at the moment the dog gets to the end of the leash (actually about two or three inches before).

Most dogs will cry out or yelp the first few times this happens.  Ignore it, you've already tested the collar and it's not causing anything but surprise.  And it is definitely not destroying the throat and causing other issues that the dog would be having if pulling on a real collar.  You want the dog to be surprised.  Now, continue your walk, and if he gets to the end - pop again.  Turning directions as well helps and make sure you don't talk to the dog.  You want him to realize he needs to be focused on you and your position.

Many dogs will then stay close to the owner after three or four good corrections.  That's fine - eventually he will figure out how far he can be away and not get corrected.  Most dogs pick this up in less than a week, with older dogs sometimes being more stubborn.  In any case, I haven't met a dog yet that this method doesn't work on.  And, I've now met three Siberians who could no longer talk because their owners let the dog pull on their collars so hard, it damaged their throat.  One had eating issues because of it.

Hope that helps and feel free to write back with questions to clarify the method.  Oh, and as for flexi-leads and harnesses - feel free to use those together for activities that you don't mind the dog pulling.  I use my flexi-lead when we go sledding in the snow - I get on the sled, go down a hill and let the dog's catch up on the flexi-lead.  And harnesses are great for when I want them to pull - like when backpacking . . .