Anole sore and coloring

Question
I have two questions.  I just got my anole after spring break.  He had a spot on his arm that looked like a skin bubble.  Now it has gotten bigger and has a black mark in the middle.  I thought maybe he was shedding but now I think he may have an infection.  Should I put neosporin on it?  Also,  I just purchased a 10 gallon aquarium for him.  I isn't green like he used to be.  But, I don't have a lot of green in the tank.  Is that the reason or do I need to put more green in the tank?

Answer
 If he has an infection it should be treated by a reptile vet, first and foremost.  Then here is a proper anole caresheet that will help with tank set-up:

ANOLE CARESHEET
Adult anole size is up to 9 inches.
Males generally have a larger dewlap than females. Males are larger than females. Males have a brighter, larger red throat,Females MAY keep the stripe down their back. Mature males have a hemipenes bumps on either side of their tail base.I believe anoles are considered mature when they reach about 5 inches snout to tail tip length.
TEMPERATURES:
They need a basking area temperature gradient of 85-92 degrees. These temperatures are needed to properly digest their foods. The basking area is one area of their cage. The overall or ambient temperature of their tank gradient upper 70-s to 80 degrees. 75 degrees for a cool area. Temperatures of 65-75 at night is fine. NEVER use heat rocks or heat caves for Anoles!! They malfunction and will cause death to the anole.
LIGHTING:
Anoles need UVB, which is the special lights
that come in fluorescent tubes
UVB is needed by the anoles
to be able to absorb the calcium in the foods they eat.
With out the uvb, they will develop metabolic bone disease.
With the tubes, they must say that they produce BOTH uvb and
uva. The uvb needs to be 5% or higher. Repti Sun 5.0 are
one of the best uvb tubes on the market. The repti glo 8.0's are testing out to be a great uvb source also.There are tubes
that say ''full spectrum'' but they do not produce any uvb.
These need to be positioned 6-8 inches over the anole so
that they get the uvb that is needed. The tubes need to be replaced every 6-9 months as that they stop producing uvb long before they stop producing light.
For daytime heat, if using the tube uvb, regular household
incandescent lightbulbs produce heat. The wattage will
depend on the size of your anoles enclosure. At night you need to provide a heat source in the form of a ceramic
heat emitter(which can also be used during the day) or a
special nighttime bulb(red or deep purple) that does not
produce any bright white light if the temperatures drop below the recommended night temperatures.
DIET:
Anoles eat daily. They are insectivores. Their food must not be too big for them (no larger than 1/2 the size of their head. All insects that are fed to them must be properly gut loaded for at least 48 hours before feeding them. Crickets, silk worms,trevo worms, wax worms are all part of their varied diet. Many will even eat babyfood fruits and possibly the meats. They are used as treats(once or twice a wk) and are wonderful for hydration. The Gut loading is feeding the insects a nutritious diet prior to feeding the insects to the anoles. This can be accomplished with feeding a recommended "diet" for the insect. ( http://www.anapsid.org/feedingbugs.html ) The crickets can be fed vegetables and cereals. Chicken laying mash is a good choice of food for the crickets as are other commercial foods designed for crickets.Their food needs to be dusted with calcium powder (rep cal calcium with no added phosphorus or vitamin D3 is a good brand) two times a week. Some may eat a bite or two of fruit. A vitamin should be used once a week. Rep Cal Herptivit is a good brand. Be sure to remove any crickets your anole has not eaten after 20 minutes or so to prevent the crickets from nibbling on your anole. Keeping your crickets well fed will help prevent this.
HOUSING:
A 20 gallon tall or larger tank or mesh vivarium is recommended for an Anole. As with almost all reptiles, its best to house them separately. Males can NEVER be housed together as they will fight over territory. Females MAY get along, but doesn't always happen.
Provide several basking branches and plants (silk and plastic)for your Anole. Be sure that all plants and branches are well anchored. For substrate(flooring) the best is plain unprinted newspaper or paper towels... its cheap and easy to clean..and the best part is its safe. Paper towels and lizard carpeting may also be used.

Stress is the usual cause of an anole turning brown. Stress with them can be caused by incorrect temperatures, other animals that they see, incorrect or no uvb, housing problems (not "natural" enough for them with plenty of plants, etc) housing two males together, (or just two that do not get along)tank not large enough ( for two anoles(male and female or possibly two females)
WATER:
Their water consumption is from dripping leaves. Misting the tank is important. Humidity needs to be in the 60-70 % range. Be sure to provide a small dish of fresh drinking water daily.
This is by no means a complete caresheet on anoles. Please be sure to check out the following link for more in-depth anole care.
http://www.kingsnake.com/anolecare/5.htm
Also, its a good idea to find a Vet before one is actually needed. Reptiles need vets that are trained to treat them. You can find a vet in your area by going to
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/