Question
Tia Dalma
Hi Diane,
I have two Leopard Geckos, a male Lavender named Cowboy, and a female Albino named Tia Dalma. I have had Cowboy for two years, and he is three years old. I just got Tia and she is about 1 or 1 1/2 year(s) old. I have a few questions (sorry!): First, because she is Albino, should I turn the cage light on less so that it doesn't damage her skin? Second, is her skin more vulnerable to wounds than normal geckos? Third, I got her yesterday and she still hasn't eaten, and gets scared when ever I offer food with tweezers--is there something wrong? Should I try feeding her fruit? And, if so, what kind?
OK here is the most important thing: When I first put them in the cage, Cowboy attacked her and she now has a scratch on her back. Then I separated them by putting her in a plastic container inside the 20 gallon tank I keep Cowboy in. Then I put her back with him after a few hours and she was attacked again--this time a scratch on the head! I've been putting Antibiotic Ointment on them (which have worked for other geckos in the past), and have her in a cage inside the tank. What can I do to make her and Cowboy get along? At the pet store (Petsmart) the worker said that she had a companion about 6 or 4 months ago, but sold quickly. Cowboy had a companion also, Dash (female), but she died recently because she ate the substrate. (I changed it to stuff they can eat.) So they have both been with other lizards before.
When I put them together again, I'll put them in neutral grounds (like the bathtub or something) so that Cowboy doesn't think it's his territory.
Sorry I have so many questions--I've never had this problem before--or an Albino anything before!
Thanks so much!
Amelia, Tia Dalma and Cowboy
PS I attached a picture of Tia (sorry it's blurry, my camera doesn't focus well!)
AnswerHi Amelia,
I am going to send along a basic care sheet that I wrote to help people out with leo care. I will number my answers to your questions so I don't forget any!!!
First, I want to mention a few things...
The edible sand...its deadly and it has killed many a leo and other lizards. Please see the care sheet for a link to graphic pics of what happens from the so called edible substrates and also my recommendations for what to use.
...When a new reptile is brought into a home, they need to be kept separate from others for about 30 days. The reasons for this is: When stressed, a reptiles internal parasite load will increase which can then infect the other leos in the tank and they will all need medicated. Also, sometimes they can carry a disease that they may not show any symptoms of, but can infect the others in the tank...stress can cause a weaker immune system, causing the disease to make itself evident in the new leo.
1. You don't need to change your lighting schedule as they are nocturnal and in the wild they still have x amt of day and x amt of night hours.
2. I had an albino and there was no difference in her skin texture or problems with it.
3. Its normal for a newbie to not want to eat for a few to several days..again..stress. As long as she has a good fat reserve in her tail, she will be fine for quite awhile. Also, placing her with the male is adding more stress.
4. Even though many people have had success housing males and females together, most leos prefer to be alone and not all leos will get along. Many people(including me) feel that to reduce stress and other problems, females should only be placed in the males tank for a short time during breeding season if you wish to breed them. Otherwise, they are in their own 20 gallon setup. You don't want them to breed at this point for a few reasons...one is that she is stressed and to go through breeding and laying can really take its toll on her at this time. Also, its better to wait til they are a little older...about 2 yrs old.
5. Cowboy was doing what came natural to him...he was attacking the intruder...or..he may have gotten aggressive trying to breed her. They may never get along and he possibly may not be a good breeder due to being too rough. Are you positive your new one is a female as males will fight til death...and as you are seeing, it may not matter if they are male and female..he just may not like her.
6. You are doing right by applying the antibiotic ointment. Keep an eye out for any drainage or infection starting..if you see that, then off to the vet for sure.
7. You are also doing right by introducing them on neutral territory...they MAY get along that way and it MAY help if you really want to house them together. If you really want to do that..do keep her separate for the month...then I would clean out his tank completely, wash everything down and they have been introduced in the bathtub or where ever and they get along, then place her in the tank and then him. Regardless of where they are, be ready to intervene at any signs of him attacking her.
8. One of mine would lick at watermelon...and with yours not eating, keeping her hydrated is vital. If she licks at the watermelon, great..that will help get water in her. If she doesn't then I would offer her water, a drop at a time from a syringe. If she doesn't start showing an interest in food(try a different food such as a treat of waxworms) you may have to feed her some acidophilus to get her "gut bacteria" working to digest properly. Also, be sure you have correct temperatures so that she can digest properly.
Its great that you ask questions!!!
Hopefully your albino is as sweet and loving as mine was!! Even though the picture is blurry, shes a cutie!!! Cowboys color is pretty..oops..handsome!!!
BASIC CARE FOR A LEOPARD GECKO
Leopards are pretty easy to care for but they do need
special care. Here are some of the basic needs of your gecko.
HOUSING: The need to have at least a 20 gallon long tank for one Leo. This needs to have a secure fitting screen top...they can be quite the escape artists!!! They need to have a humid hide box.You can make this with something as simple as a small plastic dish with a hole cut in one side and a small mesh bag filled with some Sphagnum moss coconut bark or Peat moss that you mist.
I made mine out of the small plastic folgers coffee containers...I cut an opening in the lid..and put the moss in..they LOVE it. I use the terrarium moss in mine.
I use that on the warm side of the tank. Be sure to provide a cool hidebox on the other end. I also provide a mid temperature hide...which is in the middle of the tank.I use the critter caves which you can purchase. NOT the ones that have heat in them!!!!
Provide secure climbing areas for your gecko. Fake plants, rocks and branches are all fine to use. be sure there are no wires or sharp ends to any fake plants you use.
*****SUBSTRATE:(that's the stuff on the floor of your tank) Newspaper, lizard carpet or paper towels work great and are easy to clean and are much safer than any loose substrate. Sand or other loose substrate is not recommended as that they can be deadly to the leo when it is ingested(eaten, even by accident while eating their insects)...A very graphic site of an impacted leo surg can be seen at http://homepage.mac.com/exoticdvm/reptile/PhotoAlbum181.html it is very graphic!!! ******What I have found that works great for safety and heat distribution is using about 1/4 inch of childrens play sand(since the tiles fit tight together, there is no sand danger) on the bottom of the tank and on top that you place ceramic or slate floor tile. What is nice is that the 12 x 12 squares fit perfect in a 20 gallon tank with no spaces between the tiles. The sand and the tile distribute the heat wonderfully. Using the under tank heater as described is what distributes the heat. Also, overhead heat will help in heating the tiles...I've been using this set up for several years and the leos love it. Using a tile that isn't smooth is recommended. **********
TEMPERATURES: They need a warm area ( on the floor) of 88-92 degrees and a
cooler area in the upper 70s, low 80s. At night their temperature can drop to the low to mid 70's.
Never use a hot rock for a leopard gecko...or any reptile.
They can severely burn any reptile. You can use a heating
pad under the tank,under tank heater for the warm area. You can use a regular household lightbulb in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket in it to keep the warm area at the 88-92 degree area if needed there, otherwise, placing the lightbulb about midway in the tank will give the needed temperatures throughout the tank. You may have to play with the wattage of the bulb but generally 40-60 watts is sufficient.At night, no white light. If room temperatures stay above 70 degrees, no extra night heat is needed. The undertank heater or heating pad should cover about 1/3 of the tank....be sure to raise the tank up about 1/4-1/2 inch off the stand when using an undertank heat source to prevent heat build up which can cause the glass to break and hot spots in the glass. Be sure to have a good layer of newspaper, carpeting or, even a thin flat rock(such as tile) on top the area that the undertank heat source is placed...if you use a thin rock or tile, it helps to distribute the heat very well.
You can use the special nighttime lights that are designed for reptiles. I like using a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat for nighttime heat.
DO NOT use black lights or party lights as they can cause eye damage!!!!
The wattage you use will vary based on room temperature and size of tank.
LIGHTING: Leopard geckos do not need UVB lighting but it does not hurt them to give them uvb. They should have some type of light during the day, be it a uvb tube, regular florescent light, reptile day light or regular household lightbulb. NO white lights at night!!!
FEEDING: Geckos should not be fed crickets or other insects that are bigger than the space between their eyes. Generally, hatchlings can be fed more than once a day,juvys can be fed twice a day, adults are fed once daily or every other day, in the early evening. Crickets and other food items such as silk worms, super, and an occasional treat of a wax worm, need to be dusted with a calcium supplement two times a week and also they should have a small dish of calcium in their tank. I use the lid of a milk jug for the little dish of calcium in their tank. For dusting the insects, Use a calcium with no added phosphorus. Insects must be gut loaded(fed) for at least 48 hours prior to feeding your gecko. Remove any uneaten crix or superworms after 15-20 minutes..... Place a piece of cut potato in the tank so that if you have missed any uneaten insects, they will eat the potato instead of nibbling on your gecko!!!
*************You have to be sure to feed your crickets and insects the right foods before feeding them to your gecko. If your crickets/insects are not healthy and well fed, your gecko will not get the nutrition he needs. You can gut load your crickets and insects greens, veggies, cereals or specially designed commercial foods for crickets or the insects you are feeding. ************
Be sure to have a small dish of clean water for your gecko at all times!!
You can offer them some baby food or fruits on occasion ...
Mine will even eat a small piece of watermelon now and then.WATER: always provide a dish of drinking water. If you choose to mist your gecko to drink, its best to not get the tank too wet as that they do not do well with higher humidity. Sometimes its better to take your leo out of their tank to mist them to get them to drink!!!
HANDLING: Some geckos enjoy being held...others prefer not to be handled at all. Be sure to be very gentle when holding your leo and NEVER grab them by the tail! Their tails are extremely fragile and will break.
I do suggest finding a vet that can treat reptiles BEFORE you actually need one!!! To find a vet that is able to care for reptiles:
http://www.herpvetconnection.com
http://www.arav.org/ECOMARAV/timssnet/amm/tnt_mdsearch.cfm
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/
For more information on leopard geckos:
http://www.drgecko.com
If you have any questions or don't understand something, please let me know.
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