Fat Tail gecko wont eat

Question
QUESTION: Hi, we have just recently bought a fat tail gecko for my daughter, it has only been just over a week but it has not eaten a thing. Should I be worried?

ANSWER: Hi,
Can you describe the gecko's cage, temperatures, humidity, what you're attempting to feed, age of the gecko, where you got it, whether it's been handled, etc?


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QUESTION: We bought a 10 gallon starter kit with 2 lights a blue and a white one, and it has a carpet on the floor. it has a water dish and a cave structure for it to sleep in. The temp initially was about 80 during the day and 70 at night, but I just bought new bulbs so it is now about 90 during the day and the humidity is about 30. We don't know the actual age but the pet store told us it was a juvenile. We were told it had dropped it's tail and it is growing back. We have been trying crickets as that is what the store told us to use as that is what it ate in the store. It has been handled a few times since we got it and it seems to be comfortable with it. We are totally new to this so we really want to make sure we know the right things to do
Thanks

ANSWER: My first recommendation is to buy a book on fat-tail gecko care.  The unfortunate reality is that pet stores aren't a reliable source of information on reptile care or equipment.

Here is a basic care sheet:  http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/fat_tail.htm
Here is another very good one:  http://www.progeckos.com/caresheets/fat_tail.htm

So, you need to raise the humidity, and should provide a humid hide.

Don't handle the gecko at all until it is eating regularly.  It is not normal that the gecko hasn't eaten by this point...if it doesn't so so once you correct the conditions, within about 3 days...I suggest you either return it, or take it to a veterinarian, because that indicates that they sold you a sick gecko.
(It is best to buy reptiles directly from a breeder, rather than from a pet store).

Be sure that the crickets are no larger than the space between the gecko's eyes, and that they are dusted with a quality calcium powder containing vitamin D3.

Indoor/outdoor thermometers with remote probes can be purchased inexpensively at Walmart, and will give you a clear reading on the temperature on the cool and warmer sides of the tank.  (The stick-on thermometers are trash).  You will also want a humidity gauge.  
30% is too low--it should be at least 60%, with a humid hide available.  Young geckos will rapidly dehydrate if kept too dry.

These are hardy animals, so if the gecko is stressed from an improper environment, it should come around and begin eating once it's corrected.  If the gecko was already sick when you bought it, there is not much to be done about that other than vet or return it...you will have to decide.

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QUESTION: Thank you so much for your help! I had no knowledge of a humid hide, the store never even mentioned this to us. Should it be on the hot side or cool side? Should I leave a couple crickets in the tank with him until they are eaten or should I take them out if he doesn't eat? I really appreciate the help you are giving us because we have been quite worried
Thanks

Answer
It should be on the cool side, so it will retain humidity better.  If you like, of course, you can put two in there.  The small butter tubs work well--cut a hole in the lid large enough for the gecko to crawl through, and put damp sphagnum moss inside (not peat).  Just be sure to change the moss out regularly, so it doesn't mold or grow bacteria.  :)

Remove crickets if they aren't eaten after 15 minutes--they will only bother and try to nibble on the gecko.