Im scared for My Dragon.

Question
Ok, this is actually my roomates Bearded Dragon, but i dont think they are doing everything right.  I will first start telling you the symptoms.  She is spasming out alot, like head swinging from side to side then doing barrel rolls.  This happens when we spray him or on his own, or trying to pick it up.

I have been doing research because i am quite a animal lover, and they have the heating pad, UV light, good size tank, water dish, half hollow log, rock to baste on.  They do feed him only crickets and sprinkle calcium on him, but i dont know how exactly they have been doing it.  I think they pour it on the crickets in the cage, so mabey hes getting to much, or they are not giving him enough?

Any help would be great as i am very scared for his life at this point.  I really have no idea about lizards in general but i am becoming growingly interested.

Answer
 Sounds like a mineral imbalance affecting her nervous system.  And most probably from rather poor husbandry. I would strongly suggest a trip to a good veterinarian trained in reptile medicine. Here are two links to find one:
http://www.herpvetconnection.com
http://www.arav.org/
 Now let's look at her set-up.  If she is at least a yearling juvenile or an adult, her tank should be a 30 gallon breeder tank, about 36"Lx 16"Hx18"D. Her substrate should ideally be a premium reptile carpet with a sandbox of washed, sifted children's playsand. The log hide is good, and a basking rock is fine as long as it's not a heat rock, they are dangerous. The basking rock should be within 6-8" of the UVB light.
 You did not mention what brand of UVB light she has.  Of the fluorescent UVB lights in the US, only three brands are any good:
 Zoo Med's Reptisun 10.0  Best
           Reptisun  5.0  Good
 Hagen's Exoterra Repti-glo 8.0  Good
 Even the best UVB bulbs and tubes lose the ability to produce UVB in about six months, so if the light you have is either not one of the above brands or too old, it must be replaced or the poor beardie will not be able to metabolize calcium at all.
 Light for heat can be a household bulb in a dome fixture all heat should come from above.  The basking light should produce enough heat to be between 100-105F at the basking site.  This can only be measured with a digital thermometer, one with a probe placed on the basking spot.  The stick-ons can be off by as much as 20 degrees either way.  Dehydration can also cause those tremors.
 Water...beardies rarely drink from standing water except their bath water.  They will more often lap at droplets misted on them or the glass of their cage.  They should be allowed a nice bath a couple of times a week, especially when they shed.
 Food...Crickets, superworms (zophoba worms), silkworms, butterworms, Phoenix worms, roaches are all good prey, they should be properly gutloaded.  Ground Cheerios or Total cereal plus the stalks from greens should be given to the prey 24 hour prior to feeding to make them as nutritious as posssible for the beardie.  You did not mention salad.  Salad becomes more and more important as the beardie becomes an adult.  By then the adult beardie's diet is 90% salad and only 10% prey. No lettuces...they are only crunchy water. At least three of the following greens: Collards, dandelion greens, turnip greens, mustard greens, mache, arugula.  And two of the following vegetables (grated). Winter squashes like butternut, acorn, kabocha, and buttercup; green beans, wax beans, snap beans, sweet potato, parsnip, and flat beans.
  Last thing are supplements.  The best calcium is from either Rep-cal or Miner-all, the best vitamins are Rep-cal Herptivite.  Take a dozen gutloaded crickets, put them in a plastic bag with a few pinches of supplement and shake them like Shake 'n' Bake!  That's a good dose of calcium or vitamin.  Calcium three times a week, vitamins twice a week.
 The vet should be contacted, the rest can follow.  IF you have any other questions, feel free to ask.