My gecko is blind?

Question
Hi, my female gecko( about 2 years old) mysteriesly sheded and then during the shed she had white puss coming out both eyes. We took her to the reptile vet and they gave us some eye drops. We put the eye drops in both eyes, then like 2 weeks later one eye got better while the other was crusting and is still closed. But about 1 week later in her good eye, she had 2  tiny bump-like things on her eyes which made that eye leak white puss again. We'v tried feeding her during the past month and she just would not eat and her tail has gotten skinnier. She can find her way to the bowl of water and drink it. I was wondering if i can try to put nutrients in the water to help her while she is blind. Please help my poor gecko, she is my life pet ;( i love her so much she made me tear when she wasnt eating. Any tips would help!

Answer
Hi Junad,
I would call the vet and let them know that the one eye hasn't improved.  She may need a course of oral antibiotics.The plain eye drops may not being doing enough as she may have infection internally.
The vet may have some additives for her water that can help...
Its not a good idea to trust OTC medications especially when you are not sure of the parasite, or even if there is parasites.  Most medications will upset a reptiles stomach...actually throw off their needed gut bacteria, which causes them to not have an appetite.
Its the same as when humans are taking antibiotics its recommended to eat yogurt to replenish beneficial gut bacteria.  They make special things for this for reptiles.
bene bac...labeled for birds, approved for reptiles.
nutri bac
acidolophliz+
or plain, human grade acidolophus.....   one capsule will dose for at least 3 days in a row.
BeneBac ..most larger pet stores should carry it...especially if they have birds...
Acidophiliz+  I think  PetsMart carries it..if not....on line at www.reptilesupply.com
Some people use a tiny amount(1/2 cc or less) of live culture plain yogurt for 2-3 days, but this is only something that is recommended for healthy reptiles.

Have you tried offering some insects from tweezers?  How about offering some baby food chicken from an eye dropper, or even your finger as most leos will lick at things when it touches their nose/mouth. If she will lick at the baby food, you may have to try blending the insects and offering them that way to get her interested in food again...if she will take the babyfood, do mix in one of the products I mentioned above to help her "gut bacteria" levels get to where they need to be.  Many times doing this is needed even when reptiles just go off food for a period of time. It will generally get them eating again.
You may also want to have your leo checked for internal parasites..
Double check all your care to make sure its not a care issue that is causing her not to eat. If you are using sand, remove it and use paper towels or something else, such as described in the care sheet below.
Also, you may want to try offering some wax worms.  Only a few though as they are too high in fat content and can cause health problems if feed too much or too often.


BASIC CARE FOR A LEOPARD GECKO
Leopards are pretty easy to care for but they do need
special care.  Here are some of the basic needs of your gecko.
HOUSING: The need to have at least a 20 gallon long tank for one Leo. This needs to have a secure fitting screen top...they can be quite the escape artists!!! They need to have a humid hide box.You can make this with something as simple as a small plastic dish with a hole cut in one side and a small mesh bag filled with some Sphagnum moss coconut bark or Peat moss that you mist.  
I made mine out of the small plastic folgers coffee containers...I cut an opening in the lid..and put the moss in..they LOVE it. I use the terrarium moss in mine.
I use that on the warm side of the tank. Be sure to provide a cool hidebox on the other end. I also provide a mid temperature hide...which is in the middle of the tank.I use the critter caves which you can purchase.  NOT the ones that have heat in them!!!!
Provide secure climbing areas for your gecko.  Fake plants, rocks and branches are all fine to use. be sure there are no wires or sharp ends to any fake plants you use.
*****SUBSTRATE:(that's the stuff on the floor of your tank) Newspaper, lizard carpet or paper towels work great and are easy to clean and are much safer than any loose substrate.  Sand or other loose substrate is not recommended as that they can be deadly to the leo when it is ingested(eaten, even by accident while eating their insects)...A very graphic site of an impacted leo surg can be seen at http://homepage.mac.com/exoticdvm/reptile/PhotoAlbum181.html   it is very graphic!!! ******What I have found that works great for safety and heat distribution is using about 1/4 inch of childrens play sand(since the tiles fit tight together, there is no sand danger) on the bottom of the tank and on top that you place ceramic or slate floor tile.  What is nice is that the 12 x 12 squares fit perfect in a 20 gallon tank with no spaces between the tiles.  The sand and the tile distribute the heat wonderfully.  Using the under tank heater as described is what distributes the heat.  Also, overhead heat will help in heating the tiles...I've been using this set up for several years and the leos love it.  Using a tile that isn't smooth is recommended.  **********
TEMPERATURES:  They need a warm area of 88-92 degrees and a
cooler area  in the upper 70s,  low 80s.   At night their temperature can drop to the low to mid 70's.  
Never use a hot rock for a leopard gecko...or any reptile.
They can severely burn any reptile.  You can use a heating
pad under the tank,under tank heater, or you can use a regular household lightbulb in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket in it to keep the warm area at the 88-92 degree area.At night, no white light. If room temperatures stay above 70 degrees, no extra night heat is needed. The undertank heater or heating pad should cover about 1/3 of the tank....be sure to raise the tank up about 1/4-1/2 inch off the stand when using an undertank heat source to prevent heat build up which can cause the glass to break and hot spots in the glass. Be sure to have a good layer of newspaper, carpeting or, even a thin flat rock(such as tile) on top the area that the undertank heat source is placed...if you use a thin rock or tile, it helps to distribute the heat very well.
You can  use the special nighttime lights that are designed for reptiles. I like using a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat for  nighttime heat.  
DO NOT use black lights or party lights as they can cause eye damage!!!!
The wattage you use will vary based on room temperature and size of tank.  
LIGHTING:  Leopard geckos do not need UVB lighting but it does not hurt them to give them uvb.  They should have some type of light during the day, be it a uvb tube, regular florescent light, reptile day light or regular household lightbulb. NO white lights at night!!!
FEEDING: Geckos should not be fed  crickets or other insects that are bigger than the space between their eyes.  Generally, hatchlings can be fed more than once a day,juvys can be fed twice a day, adults are fed once daily or every other day, in the early evening. Crickets and other food items such as silk worms, super, and an occasional treat of a wax worm, need to be dusted with a calcium supplement two times a week and also they should have a small dish of calcium in their tank.  I use the lid of a milk jug for the little dish of calcium in their tank.  For dusting the insects, Use a calcium with no added phosphorus.  Insects must be gut loaded(fed) for at least 48 hours prior to feeding your gecko. Remove any uneaten crix or superworms after 15-20 minutes.....  Place a piece of cut potato in the tank so that if you have missed any uneaten insects, they will eat the potato instead of nibbling on your gecko!!!
*************You have to be sure to feed your crickets and insects the right foods before feeding them to your gecko.  If your crickets/insects are not healthy and well fed, your gecko will not get the nutrition he needs. You can gut load your crickets and insects greens, veggies, cereals or specially designed commercial foods for crickets or the insects you are feeding. ************
Be sure to have a small dish of clean water for your gecko at all times!!
You can offer them some baby food or fruits on occasion ...
Mine will even eat a small piece of watermelon now and then.WATER:  always provide a dish of drinking water.  If you choose to mist your gecko to drink, its best to not get the tank too wet as that they do not do well with higher humidity.  Sometimes its better to take your leo out of their tank to mist them to get them to drink!!!
HANDLING:  Some geckos enjoy being held...others prefer not to be handled at all.  Be sure to be very gentle when holding your leo and NEVER grab them by the tail!  Their tails are extremely fragile and will break.  
I do suggest finding a vet that can treat reptiles BEFORE you actually need one!!!  To find a vet that is able to care for reptiles:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets
http://www.arav.org/Directory.htm
For more information on leopard geckos:
http://www.thegeckospot.com/leocareindex2.html
http://www.drgecko.com
If you have any questions or don't understand something, please let me know.