Parrot Cichlid with Peeling Skin?

Question
I have a Parrot Cichlid who appears to have his skin peeling. It seems to be coming off in strings...there was one around his underside, tail fin, and most recently, his eye. He has water look like tiny water bubbles on his underside, but they don't really look like ich or anything. His parameters are all fine, 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, 0 nitrate. I just moved him from a 10 gallon to a 20 gallon aquarium. I used nearly all the water in the 10 gallon (except the water within the gravel) and the rest of the water was new. He has an Aquaclear 20 and a Marineland Penguin 150 (for a 30 gallon) filtering his aquarium. The Aquaclear was on his old 10 gallon and has all of the old inserts (except the carbon, which I changed yesterday). Before putting the gravel in the new aquarium, I ran it and his Rena heater under hot tap water hoping the chlorine and heat would kill the algae on the rocks and heater. We'd had a bit of an algae issue in the old tank, and it doesn't seem to have transferred to the new one. I keep the tank at around 81 degrees. I also used about 4 tbsp of API aquarium salt in the new tank (it said 1 tbsp for every 5 gallons). I added StressZyme and Prime to the water as well to treat it. His behavior has been normal in the tank since I put him in it, and he is the only one in there. I am really concerned about his skin, though, since he I can't seem to find anything about it anywhere and the water quality is fine. He is "my baby" and I am freaking out a little bit here! I appreciate any help! I attac

Answer
E,   The problem here is you are going through what I call a hard cycle. When you set up a new tank it has to cycle down. The smart thing you did was use water from the other tank unfortunately you should have used abit less.First let me explain the way your tank cycles then we will get into how to make sure you baby makes it and a couple common misconceptions you have. The ideal way to cycle a tank is without the fish and some live bacteria you can purchase but, since he is in there its the same thing you introduced bacteria to the water. First if your using tap water with chlorine it needs to be dechlorinates as this over time can and is poisonous to your fish and will not kill the algea. I would imagine your water is clouding up if not it will eventually as you will get a bloom of bacteria which is fine without that you are not building the ecosystem in your tank that makes it self sustaining except your cleanings and filter changes. This bacteria will eventually make a nice home on your rockbed. As this is happening you are going to go through the cycle your ammonia are going to spike because there are more waste then bacteria so it needs time to grow. The bacteria then becomes your biological filtration your filters are your mechanical filtration. What the bacteria does is eat the wastes and recycle that ammonia into a less harmful form of ammonia, nitrites , then again into nitrates. When you clean your tank and I hope it is with a syphon which is a tube with a hose and a bucket. This if water is scooped and starts to run into bucket sink it in your tank should create a suction and get all them solid wastes out of the rocks and some of the extra bacteria and replace your declorinated water to replace electrolytes and minerals necessary for your baby.   You have two things happening rt now you have a bunch of free floating bacteria that is why you never shake the rocks to do a water change it sticks to the fish especially when there is no food for them and will attack its slimecoat. Never run your heater under hot water please. The water getting hot too soon causes stress that can cause Ick from a rapid temperature change. O.K so my recommendations rt now even though your readings are fine keep an eye on them is do a 50% now try to get some of that free floating bacteria out of there. This isn't your first day babe so try to get the temp close and dechlorinate and refill.  NOW E, the algae grows from overfeeding but mostly from too much light. The best way to keep it down is you already did no.1 larger tank. The biggy is light if it is near a window put a background on it and on the sides. Turn light on later in the day and off before you go to bed. There are algae out tabs but this tank is not established yet and will take about a good month. In the meantime water changes 30% every four days after the first or your ammonia's start to come down after they spike and they will. The api is great for help in breathing and absorption of good electrolytes and things. It causes that process of osmosis to work more efficiently. They breathe by osmosis they absorb water and give off wastes. So you have waste coming from everywhere...lol I love the parrots so friendly, beautiful and usually very docile almost like a doggy when you walk in come right too you. Don't let him train you they are not always starving..lol Though they are a hybrid fish created between a midas cichlid and red devil and they do have a tendency to suffer from malnutrition. So you want to make sure they have a varied diet blood worms not dry frozen not whole cube either just a few at a time watch and you will know when he is done, a nice pellet that is vitamin enhanced,beef heart they love,and greens get a veggie clip at your pet shop it has a suction cup blanch greens high in beta carotene spinach frozen easier to keep , mustard greens , frozen kelp . See what they like. Now the best way to take care of the peeling right now like I said get half this water out go get some stress coat and pour it right over him to strengthen his slime coat and protect him from the exponential changes that are going to happen over the next couple weeks. I would not start their regular diet until tank is established you need no extra wastes stick with a high vitamin pellet never a flake food. Keep your water changes up you should be good in a few weeks . If you are seeing him getting red streaks do 10 % more when your doing your changes right now. Get your temp back down to about 74 to 78 degrees. I am assuming you are watching your PH these guys actually run at abit of a higher ph and about 7.4 to 7.6 gradually is better for them. if you can keep the water quality ok and get his slime coat built up with some patience and persistence you should be fine. Feel free if you have any other questions........ I am going to send you a care sheet that explains the cycling of your tank...         http://www.bestfish.com/breakin.html....... If you have anymore questions or there are any signs your fish is having ask me . I don't want to add medication to your water as this will kill the bacteria and your not established but, it is not disease hes having just abit of a hard time . If he shows any different signs like not holding himself upright or swollen eyes get back to me or if you have another question...., Good Luck Tina