bullheaded retreiver

Question
I have a 3 yr. old golden that is very rambunctious. He has a half an acre fenced in but he kept getting out. He would pull the fence off the posts or dig out underneath the fence. He has dug holes 3 times his size. I tried to fill the holes in with railroad ties but he would dig under them or move them. When he got out he would run for hours. He wouldn't come when you called him, he wouldn't even look at you. No, he's not deaf. I tried the electronic collar on him but set at the highest level it didn't even phase him. I did solve this problem by putting up an electric cattle fence. I ran it along the ground about 4 inches high. I left his eating and sleeping areas and gate unwired by laying cement pads so he can't dig. This works very well. He's gotten zapped only 2 times that I know of. He cried and got his feelings hurt but now he won't go within 2 feet of the fence. Do you think that the charge hurt him at all?
I also had the problem of the clasp on his leashes coming unhooked when he would yank on them. I just attach the leash to his collar with a small padlock.
He likes to walk but lately he's been making it a chore. When I walk him on one side he keeps bumping into me(actually pushing me), on the other side he is constantly pulling so hard that he is choking. It doesn't matter which side of the road we're on or which side of me he is on. But if I need to stop to tie my shoe he will stand still and wait for me. Once in a great while we have a good walk, but I can't figure out what we're doing different on those days.He hasn't always done this (at least not this bad). When he was smaller I used the harness that pinches under the legs when you pull, but all that did was make him buck. I really need some help on this one cuz this is our quality time together.
Another thing he started doing is licking the door. He has licked the door right down to the bare metal and he licks at this continually every day. I was wondering if this is harmful to him (Could this be making him so cuckoo?)Could something be missing from his diet? I feed him Purina and Pedigree dry food and usually mix it cuz he eats my smaller dogs food. This dog has been a handful from day one. He's always been stubborn and bullheaded, but he is also very lovable and VERY smart. He definitely knows when he is doing something wrong. He won't fetch, he just grabs everything and runs away and chews it up, or he will walk circles around you and rub his butt against you. He has eaten everything including a clay flowerpot that he chewed up so small that I couldn't even tell what it was! He did that as a puppy. He's been real good lately about chewing stuff he's not supposed to. Is it possible he outgrew it? Will he get tired with this walking thing too? Any suggestions? The vet said he is a very disruptive dog. That came as news to me!
But at the end of the day when he nudges me and lays his head on my lap and looks at me with those big, dumb, mischievious eyes, all is forgiven. And I think he knows that too!

Answer
Many people believe that all Goldens are easy to manage.  Some people believe in flying saucers too.  I strongly maintain that the dogs never read their breed descriptions and often have behavior patterns not typical for their breed.  

I have touched electric fences and it hurts.  Likely you have accidentally too. I doubt he suffered any lasting injury.  It sounds like you have found a solution that works with him.  There isn't anything that will work with all dogs.  Some times you just have to try several things until you find one that works.  Then stick with it.  

The pulling on lead is a common problem.  You may want to go directly to the head collar, but start with a good 6' leather leash and a sturdy slip collar, the metal chain ones with the rings on each end. You want the shortest one that will go on and off easily. If you walk with the dog on the left, pull the chain through one loop forming a "P". Facing it, slip it over its head. The free end
should come over the neck to the leash, and the other end should drop slack
when there is no pull on the leash.  

Easier dogs will give up their pulling with a few good snaps of the leash
combined with a stern "Bad dog!".  You can work up to forceful corrections
with the leash doubled up in both hands and your whole body behind it.   But
you don't want to use any more force than you need.  One gentle technique I
like is to just stop when he pulls.  He wants to go.  If you move forward when
the leash is slack, and stop when he pulls, he should quickly figure out the
only way to get to go, is not to pull.  This is about teaching him not to
pull, not getting somewhere.  The man that taught it to me said "If in a half
hour you haven't made it out to the front walk, fine, you have taught him a
lesson.

Still, you may want to switch to a head collar.  The leading brands are Promise,  Haltie, and Gentle Leader.  They have a
strap going around the dogs nose looking something like a muzzle.  They work
by pulling the dogs head around.  No other way gives you such great control
with so little force.  The prong collar is now a dangerous relic of value only
for its macho looks.  Do not consider using one without hands on instruction
from somebody with plenty of experience with them.  Many obedience instructors still insist on the prong collar.  That is acceptable as long as they know what they are doing on fitting one.  

Bitter Apple usually works on places such as the the door.  Pet supplies should have sprays or creams.  Just apply it and most dogs will give up.  Even if very old, I doubt the door would have had enough of anything in it to hurt him.  Like some other things, the danger of lead in paint is vastly over rated.  The interior latexes used since W.W.II never did have much of anything harmful in them.  

Stick with the Purina and Pedigree.  Most of the advantages of the more expensive chows are to the owner, not the dog.  Besides the snob appeal of any highly advertised product, they produce smaller, easier to clean up stools.  Healthier dog?  Forget it, eager eaters might be happier with the bulkier Purina.  

Many dogs do shred stuff when younger, growing out of it after they are 2 years old.  Pulling?  I have an 11 year old Lab that is a retired dog guide.  She knows she isn't working anymore and thinks she doesn't have to behave,  still needing a slip collar to save your arm.

I am not surprised your vet finds him disruptive.  Some dogs are very and determined to be top dog.  There are subtle way dogs can challenge other dogs.  I can see him upsetting all the other dogs in the vet office.  Many people, even those that fancy themselves dog experts, have little experience with strong willed dogs such as him.  They may snicker over your struggles with him.  Having a good pack structure reduces such problems.  The dogs see all the
people and dogs in the household as a pack with each having their own rank in
the pack and a top dog.  Life is much easier if the 2 legged pack members
outrank the 4 legged ones.  You can learn to play the role of top dog by
reading some books or going to a good obedience class. A good obedience class
or book is about you being top dog, not about rewarding standard commands with
a treat. Start at http://www.dogsbestfriend.com/

With somebody the right age in the family, 4-H dog training is a great idea.
In my area, clubs form soon after the first of the year.  Even many urban
areas have 4-H.  For info look in your phone book under government listings
for extension or cooperative extension offices.  Ask specifically about a dog
or canine club.