Betta aquariums

Question
Hi Karen,First off I just wanted to thank you for your response to Marie! You answered so many of my questions I have had on bettas especially about tank mates! Thanks. I am wondering if you have an answer for mine! I have aquired three betta friends all in large fish bowls but of course not appropriate accomodations. I keep my house too cool for them and realize now I need to get them aquariums with heaters. I wonder if you know if there are aquariums that are divided into 3 so they can be in the same tank but seperate? Or am I going to need to do three different tanks? I hope that they do make such things I see several that are only two fish tanks and only 2 gallons as well as a hexagon that houses four but again only 2 gallon and partitions much too small. Again let me say how helpful your long letter to marie was I couldnt believe how complete it was and answered so many of my questions! Glad I found this site! I raise miniature horses and take optimum care of them but know a lot on that subject where the bettas are greek to me. Thanks again Melissa

Answer
Hi Melissa, you're very welcome!
~The best enviroment for your three little bettas is a simple 10 gallon aquarium. You can easily attach aquarium dividers in this setup and ones which fit 10 gallons are made as well. This is an ideal setup for bettas. Unlike small tiny little tanks or bowls, a 10 gallon can be "cycled" or established which means certain beneficial bacteria which make keeping all aquariums healthy--possible can be allowed to colonize. This size of an enviroment can also be heated with a good quality heater--smaller tanks can be hard to heat and you certainly can't put a heater into a bowl. 10 gallons are much more stable and provide the space and good water quality bettas deserve.

A ten gallon tank is fortunately quite inexpensive to purchase and the equiptment needed is rather simple.
You will typically need the following things-
*tank and stand--unless you have a very sturdy piece of furniture you know will support it. Stands are best.
* cover and light- a glass cover is essential, you can find one to properly fit your aquarium size. A florescent hood is best. Incandescent has a tendancy to put out more heat than light. Florescent brings out more beautiful colors.
* Simple power filter. A simple Hang-on-the-back power filter works well for bettas. The current of the return flow water must be controlled as to not disturb the bettas too much. A thick plant--real or plastic works great when attached in front of the return flow to slow it down considerably. If your power filter has a control flow--that is even better.
* Heater-- Visatherm makes a great heater. Cheaper types have a tendancy to not work as well. Be sure to get one rated for 10 gallon's only. You need 5 watts of power per gallon of water.
* Gravel, decor, plants... Gravel is pretty much your choice, but natural shades are best. Please avoid bright florescent colors. Decorations are pretty much your choice as well, but the decor should be smooth and not rough for the sake of a betta's flowing fins. I prefer natural decor, pebbles, stones, driftwood. Anything you add to your aquarium should be labeled for use in aquariums.
Live plants are a betta's dream. They love jungles of live plants. They greatly benefit from them. And a jungle of live plants greatly replicates their natural habitat.
Some good easy to keep live plants include-
~Hornwort
~Anacharis
~Red ludwigia
~Nympheae lily
~Aponogeton
~Java Fern
~Java Moss
And even Duckweed. These plants are generally easy to care for and look wonderful when planted in groups in the aquarium. Live plants need 10-12 hours of Florescent light and occasional trimming to keep the taller plants from shading the shorter ones.

Once you have your 10 gallon betta home with two dividers. (Since two will make three reasonably roomy compartments) You should insure the dividers are secure and there is no way one of your bettas can get through to the other. You can then put in your gravel. About 1 1/2 inches is all that is needed. Too much more than this and the gravel can be hard to keep clean. Now with your washed (plain water) gravel in place, now it's time for your decor and plants. Live plants should be added when the aquarium is about half-way full. Now fill your aquarium up with lukewarm tapwater. Be sure to always add water conditioner when adding fresh tap water. Chlorine and Chloramines in tap water is extremely toxic to fish. Stresscoat, Startright, Amquel, Prime and aquasafe are just a few of the good water conditioners available.

Now with your heater and filter in place and the tank completely full, Plug everything in and let it run for at least 1-2 daysto insure everything is running right and your heater is working how you want it. Now it's time for your bettas! If there is a big differance in temperature (check with an aquarium thermometor) float your bettas in medium size sandwich bags in the aquarium to allow them to get accostumed to it. Make sure your bettas always have access to the outside air when in a bag or anywhere. After about 30 minutes your betta's temperature should be equalized and you can now release each one into their own little compartment. Enjoy! They should swim with glee in their new home. They'll have each-other to display to and will love the great care and concern you have given them.

A ten gallon is not without maintance of course. Keep in mind when you first setup your aquarium your tank will begin to attempt to establish a beneficial bacterial colony. These bacteria eat and convert ammonia and nitrite into less harmful of both--nitrate. Sometimes an aquarium can have an toxic ammonia spike when fish are first added, this is normal and it will take a while for the bacteria to get established everywhere in your aquarium where they will consume the ammonia and slowly convert it over to nitrite and later in nitrate by more bacteria. This whole process takes at least 4-6 weeks. But some aquariums can be cycled in 2-3 weeks. Adding bacteria additives for freshwater aquariums will help greatly in the cycling process. Ammonia, nitrite, and Nitrate can all easily be tested for with simple aquarium test kits. Spikes in ammonia or nitrite call for an immediate water change of 30-50% to dilute the pollution. Always make the replacement water equalized in temperature and insure it is properly dechlorinated with water conditioner.

Once you have your aquarium established (which is told by when your ammonia, and nitrite readings have dropped to zero and your nitrate levels good) you can do very simple maintainance to your bettas, a 20% water change once a week is fine. But a 50% water change once a week insures your other half of the oldest water is not very old. Water changes are essential because your filter just can't remove all the waste in your aquarium. Only water changes can remove harmful buildups your bacteria can't deal with. Water changes are the best thing you can do for your bettas.

A wonderful 10 gallon setup with three bettas would be beautiful and the bettas are to be surely interesting and personable pets. With good care, you can be insured to have your betta friends for years to come... Even up to 5 years!

I really hope this helps! If you have anymore questions or concerns, feel free to email me...

It's wonderful to hear how my advice was helpful! Thank you for your kind comments! They are greatly appreciated!

Best wishes and Happy fishkeeping!
Karen~
ps: I LOVE miniature Horses!!!!