ick and high ph

Question
QUESTION: I have had my 55gal tank setup and running for about three months now. After it cycled i began adding fish. Up until recently I havn't had any problems. However now im losing fish left and right. I realized my tiger barbs, clown loach, and kissing gourami's had ick. Also at the same time the ph levels shot through the roof(over 8.5). I've cleaned the decorations and vacumed the gravel and continued 25% water changes. Also I've been treating the ick and added a ph neutralizer. All the barbs and the angelfish died in the last 2 days. The two gourami's are covered in ick and seem to be dieing.  The loach seems alot better and has become alot more active. I have one opaline gourami that dosn't seem to be affected at all.  I think the ick is clearing up, but the ph is not getting better. I did add some new substrate about ten days ago and replaced the carbon in my filters.  I was sure to rinse it before adding it on top of the old. Its just regular small stone.  Please help me.  I don't want to lose anymore fish.

ANSWER: Hi Steve,
I am concerned that you have disrupted the beneficial bacteria in your tank. This "good" bacteria builds up mainly in the gravel and filter. When you removed your cartridge full of carbon, you also removed the bacteria which keeps your ammonia levels down. There is a good chance that not only is the ick killing your fish, but also the ammonia due to the lack of beneficial bacteria. Raise the temperature in your tank up to 82, but raise it slowly. You do not want to shock your fish. Raising the temperature will help fight off ick and also keep your kissing gouramis more comfortable. Kissing gouramis like their water on the warmer side. When the ick does go away make sure to lower the temperature back to normal, but warm enough for your gouramis.  I would also be careful when adding all these chemicals to your aquarium water. Instead of using pH neutralizer try some driftwood. Driftwood does a good job in decreasing your pH value and gives your tank some decoration. Go to a local pet store if possible and get your water tested to see if you have high levels of ammonia. If ammonia is high start water changes immediately. Make sure to keep up on water maintence until this problem is cleared up. If you have any other question that I didn't answer please let me know. Hope it works for you. :)

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thankyou for your quick response! I was kinda thinking the same thing about the bacteria. I did check the nitrates and ammonia levels. My test showed 0ppm of both. Thought that was kinda weird. Since I sent the first question one of the kissing gouramis has died. Also i do have a few large pieces of driftwood in the tank. I will try raising the temp slowly. currently its at 76. Is it possible that it is a fungus bacteria or something other than ick? They are just covered in tiny white spots and since I've been treating it, it seems to be turning into a cotton-like slime and starting to come off. I've never delt with this before so im not sure. Also how long should it take for the ph to drop? I really appriciate your help. Thankyou very much!

Answer
This is not uncommon when trying to treat ick. It is actually rare for sliminess of the skin to be caused by just one kind of skin parasite. Your fish not only has ick, but is developing a film of excess mucus also. This can easily be treated along with the ick medication. However, if it fails to bring improvement within 5 to 7 days, carry out a 50% water change and use an antiparasitic medication. Make sure to follow the water change directions on the box of the medication. Raising the temperature will help fight this off, so continue to do so slowly until you have reached 82 degrees. I would take care of the ick first before worrying about your pH. 8.5 is a high value,but will not kill your fish as long as it stays consistent. After you treated your ick, then I would move on to lowering your pH. If the driftwood is not lowering it by the time your fish are cured, start using the pH neutralizer. It is very important that you do not go over 0.3 pH units per 24 hour period.  This allows the fish to adapt without being stressed. I would not worry about the pH until your fish are cured, we wouldn't want to add more unnecessary stress then what they already have. Hope they get better soon.