our leopard geckos

Question
We have two females, Rosie and Rubie.  Unfortunately, we also have three cats.  The geckos seemed to be hibernating (which I had just learned about) when one of our new cats figured out how to get in their aquarium cage while we were out of the house.  It took us several tries to make a cover that he couldn't get through again, and in the meantime he got in three times.  Once he got Rosie's tail.  Now no cat can get in, and Rosie's tail has grown back pretty well.  Problem is, neither of the girls seems to have come out of hibernation.  They are inactive, 24/7, move very slowly if and when they move.  I've not been able to lure them to eat very much at all.  Their tails still seem to have some fat storage, and they drink water, but they're practically eating nothing.  Do you know if they would be traumatized?  Is there anything we could do to help them?  I feel just terrible about this, and want to get them back to active health if I can.  Thank you for your consideration.

Answer

Hi Ellen,
So sorry to hear you are having problems with your leos.
Leos really don't hibernate as say other lizards do...but some do go off food for a short time. I would double check your temperatures as when the weather changes, we usually have to do some "fixing" on all our critters heat sources to be sure their temps are correct.
Have you tried offering other insects rather than their normal ones?  Try some wax worms as they may entice them to eat.  Only a few though as that they are not good for regular feeding.
Its great that they are drinking water...that is a very very good thing!!
You don't say how long they have been not eating..or how long ago the cat problem occurred but..yes..it could have stressed them out greatly.
You may want to consider having a fecal check done at your vets to make sure there are no parasites.  
Also, you might want to consider a pro-biotic...pro-biotics are basically gut bacteria boosters. You can use   Acidophilus capsules(available at healthfood stores, wal mart, pharmacys) which you can open up and add some to some babyfood fruit(about 1/8 capsule) They generally will lick at the babyfood even on your finger. You can repeat this for 3 days.  That should boost their gut bacteria which will boost their appetite.
You can also use a product called "jump Start"(available at some pet stores and on line) which can help.   I've included a care sheet on the leos which will give you information on insects you can feed.  It also has links to more info on leos.
Be sure to feed your insects (gut load) and to use the correct calcium supplements on your leos to prevent calcium deficiencies in them also...
If you need more info...give a shout!!
Also, if, with trying the above things, your leos do not start eating in a week or less, or if they stop drinking, its vital to get them to a vet for a check up!!

BASIC CARE FOR A LEOPARD GECKO
Leopards are pretty easy to care for but they do need
special care.  Here are some of the basic needs of your
gecko.
HOUSING: The need to have at least a 20 gallon long tank for
one Leo. This needs to have a secure fitting screen top...they can be quite the escape artists!!! They need to have a humid hide box.You can make
this with something as simple as a small plastic dish with a
hole cut in one side and a small mesh bag filled with some
Sphagnum moss, coconut bark or Peat moss that you mist.  
I made mine out of the small plastic folgers coffee containers...I cut an opening in the lid..and put the moss in..they LOVE it. I use the terrarium moss in mine.
I use that on the warm side of the tank. Be sure to provide a cool hidebox on the other end. I also provide a mid temperature hide...which is in the middle of the tank.I use the critter caves which you can purchase.  NOT the ones that have heat in them!!!!
Provide secure climbing areas for your gecko.  Fake plants, rocks and branches are all fine to use. be sure there are no wires or sharp ends to any fake plants you use.

SUBSTRATE:(that's the stuff on the floor of your tank) News
paper, lizard carpet or paper towels work great and are easy
to clean and are much safer than any loose substrate.  Sand or other loose substrate is not recommended as that they can be deadly to the leo when it is ingested(eaten, even by accident while eating their insects)...

TEMPERATURES:  They need a warm area of 88-92 degrees and a
cooler area  in the upper 70s,  low 80s.   At night their
temperature can drop to the low to mid 70's.  
Never use a hot rock for a leopard gecko...or any reptile.
They can severely burn any reptile.  You can use a heating
pad under the tank,under tank heater, or you can use a regular household
lightbulb in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket in it to
keep the warm area at the 88-90 degree area.At night, no white light. If room temperatures stay above 70 degrees, no extra night heat is needed. The undertank heater or heating pad should cover about 1/3 of the tank....be sure to raise the tank up about 1/4-1/2 inch off the stand when using an undertank heat source to prevent heat build up which can cause the glass to break and hot spots in the glass. Be sure to have a good layer of newspaper, carpeting or, even a thin flat rock(such as tile) on top the area that the undertank heat source is placed...if you use a thin rock or tile, it helps to distribute the heat very well.
You can  use the special nighttime lights that are designed for reptiles. I like using a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat for  nighttime heat.  
DO NOT use black lights or party lights as they can cause eye damage!!!!
The wattage you use will vary based on room temperature and size of tank.  
LIGHTING:  Leopard geckos do not need UVB lighting but it does not hurt them to give them uvb.  They should have some type of light during the day, be it a uvb tube, regular florescent light, reptile day light or regular household lightbulb. NO white lights at night!!!

FEEDING: Geckos should not be fed  crickets or other insects that are bigger than the space between their eyes.  Crickets and other food items such as silk worms, super, and an occasional treat of a wax worm, need to be dusted with a calcium supplement two times a week and also they should have a small dish of calcium in their tank.  I use the lid of a milk jug for the little dish of calcium in their tank.  For dusting the insects, Use a calcium with no added phosphorus.  
Insects must be gut loaded(fed) for at least 48 hours prior to feeding your gecko. Remove any uneaten crix or superworms after 15-20 minutes.....  Place a piece of cut potato in the tank so that if you have missed any uneaten insects, they will eat the potato instead of nibbling on your gecko!!!
You have to be sure to feed your crickets the right foods
before feeding them to your gecko.  If your crickets/insects are not healthy and well fed, your gecko will not get the nutrition
he needs. You can gut load your crickets greens, veggies, cereals or specially designed commercial foods for crickets or the insects you are feeding.
Be sure to have a small dish of clean water for your gecko
at all times!!
You can offer them some baby food or fruits on occasion ...
Mine will even eat a small piece of watermelon now and then.
WATER:  always provide a dish of drinking water.  If you choose to mist your gecko to drink, its best to not get the tank too wet as that they do not do well with higher humidity.  Sometimes its better to take your leo out of their tank to mist them to get them to drink!!!

HANDLING:  Some geckos enjoy being held...others prefer not to be handled at all.  Be sure to be very gentle when holding your leo and NEVER grab them by the tail!  Their tails are extremely fragile and will break.  
I do suggest finding a vet that can treat reptiles BEFORE you actually need one!!!  To find a vet that is able to care for reptiles:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets
http://www.arav.org/Directory.htm
For more information on leopard geckos:
http://www.thegeckospot.com/leocareindex2.html
http://www.drgecko.com

If you have any more questions, or don't understand something, please let me know!!