Gecko Shake?

Question
I just purchased a Albino Leopard Gecko at petsmart. She is eating ok i havent seen her poop (only had her one day.) But when she walks her legs are a little shaky. Only noticible really when she walking slow when she is exploring places. her whole body does not shake or anything like that just the leg she is moving. She can run ok and she is active when i let her out the cage.. Is it normal for them to kinda shake a bit when they walk? The people at petsmart said she eats ok and everything.. She sleeps all day and kinda naps at night im not sure if thats normal. While she is up though she is curious explores and walks around.  So basically is the sleeping thing normal and is tHe kinda shaky walking ok.

Answer
Hi Brandon,
First, I will address the sleeping issue.  Leopard geckos are nocturnal, which means they sleep during the day and are active in the evening/night, so yes, shes being normal.
If she is hesitating (being cautious) when checking out things in her new home, she may appear to be shaky on her legs.  If it is severe, or is showing signs of being weak, then its important to get her to a vet to make sure its not a health issue. My guess is she is just being cautious and exploring. I've included a basic care sheet on the leos for you so that you can be sure you are doing everything correct for her as pet store information is not the best place to get proper care info...they are there to sell products..not offer proper care in most cases. They all tell you the such is eating and is healthy...which, many times isn't the case as they have no clue who is eating and who isn't because they have so many in one tank and no one actually stands there to see if they are all eating properly.
BASIC CARE FOR A LEOPARD GECKO

Leopards are pretty easy to care for but they do need

special care.  Here are some of the basic needs of your

gecko.

HOUSING: The need to have at least a 20 gallon long tank for one Leo. This needs to have a secure fitting screen top...they can be quite the escape artists!!! They need to have a humid hide box.You can make this with something as simple as a small plastic dish with a hole cut in one side and a small mesh bag filled with some Sphagnum moss coconut bark or Peat moss that you mist.  

I made mine out of the small plastic folgers coffee containers...I cut an opening in the lid..and put the moss in..they LOVE it. I use the terrarium moss in mine.

I use that on the warm side of the tank. Be sure to provide a cool hidebox on the other end. I also provide a mid temperature hide...which is in the middle of the tank.I use the critter caves which you can purchase.  NOT the ones that have heat in them!!!!

Provide secure climbing areas for your gecko.  Fake plants, rocks and branches are all fine to use. be sure there are no wires or sharp ends to any fake plants you use.

*****SUBSTRATE:(that's the stuff on the floor of your tank) Newspaper, lizard carpet or paper towels work great and are easy to clean and are much safer than any loose substrate.  Sand or other loose substrate is not recommended as that they can be deadly to the leo when it is ingested(eaten, even by accident while eating their insects)... ******What I have found that works great for safety and heat distribution is using about 1/4 inch of childrens play sand(since the tiles fit tight together, there is no sand danger) on the bottom of the tank and on top that you place ceramic or slate floor tile.  What is nice is that the 12 x 12 squares fit perfect in a 20 gallon tank with no spaces between the tiles.  The sand and the tile distribute the heat wonderfully.  Using the under tank heater as described is what distributes the heat.  Also, overhead heat will help in heating the tiles...I've been using this set up for several years and the leos love it.  Using a tile that isn't smooth is recommended.  **********

TEMPERATURES:  They need a warm area of 88-92 degrees and a

cooler area  in the upper 70s,  low 80s.   At night their

temperature can drop to the low to mid 70's.  

Never use a hot rock for a leopard gecko...or any reptile.

They can severely burn any reptile.  You can use a heating

pad under the tank,under tank heater, or you can use a regular household

lightbulb in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket in it to

keep the warm area at the 88-90 degree area.At night, no white light. If room temperatures stay above 70 degrees, no extra night heat is needed. The undertank heater or heating pad should cover about 1/3 of the tank....be sure to raise the tank up about 1/4-1/2 inch off the stand when using an undertank heat source to prevent heat build up which can cause the glass to break and hot spots in the glass. Be sure to have a good layer of newspaper, carpeting or, even a thin flat rock(such as tile) on top the area that the undertank heat source is placed...if you use a thin rock or tile, it helps to distribute the heat very well.

You can  use the special nighttime lights that are designed for reptiles. I like using a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat for  nighttime heat.  

DO NOT use black lights or party lights as they can cause eye damage!!!!

The wattage you use will vary based on room temperature and size of tank.  

LIGHTING:  Leopard geckos do not need UVB lighting but it does not hurt them to give them uvb.  They should have some type of light during the day, be it a uvb tube, regular florescent light, reptile day light or regular household lightbulb. NO white lights at night!!!

FEEDING: Geckos should not be fed  crickets or other insects that are bigger than the space between their eyes.  Generally, hatchlings can be fed more than once a day,juvys can be fed twice a day, adults are fed once daily or every other day, in the early evening. Crickets and other food items such as silk worms, super, and an occasional treat of a wax worm, need to be dusted with a calcium supplement two times a week and also they should have a small dish of calcium in their tank.  I use the lid of a milk jug for the little dish of calcium in their tank.  For dusting the insects, Use a calcium with no added phosphorus.  

Insects must be gut loaded(fed) for at least 48 hours prior to feeding your gecko. Remove any uneaten crix or superworms after 15-20 minutes.....  Place a piece of cut potato in the tank so that if you have missed any uneaten insects, they will eat the potato instead of nibbling on your gecko!!!

*************You have to be sure to feed your crickets and insects the right foods before feeding them to your gecko.  If your crickets/insects are not healthy and well fed, your gecko will not get the nutrition he needs. You can gut load your crickets and insects greens, veggies, cereals or specially designed commercial foods for crickets or the insects you are feeding. ************

Be sure to have a small dish of clean water for your gecko at all times!!

You can offer them some baby food or fruits on occasion ...

Mine will even eat a small piece of watermelon now and then.

WATER:  always provide a dish of drinking water.  If you choose to mist your gecko to drink, its best to not get the tank too wet as that they do not do well with higher humidity.  Sometimes its better to take your leo out of their tank to mist them to get them to drink!!!

HANDLING:  Some geckos enjoy being held...others prefer not to be handled at all.  Be sure to be very gentle when holding your leo and NEVER grab them by the tail!  Their tails are extremely fragile and will break.  

I do suggest finding a vet that can treat reptiles BEFORE you actually need one!!!  To find a vet that is able to care for reptiles:

http://www.anapsid.org/vets

http://www.arav.org/Directory.htm

For more information on leopard geckos:

http://www.thegeckospot.com/leocareindex2.html

http://www.drgecko.com

If you have any more questions, or don't understand something, please let me know