GOLDFISH WITH ICK

Question
QUESTION: I have a 4 gallon Baby Biorb with a small fantail goldfish (1") and a medium black moor goldfish (2").  I've had the fantail for 2 weeks, the black moor for 1 week and the tank was stabilized a week prior to that (3 weeks total).  They seemed very healthy and happy, very interactive.

I rinse the filter weekly and change out 25% of the water weekly.  I change the filter monthly, always adding in extra carbon.

I feed them twice a day, 2 flakes and 2 crispies only.

My black moor showed the white spots, so I went to the pet store and got the jungle ick treatment tablets.  I cut it in half (since it's for a 10 gallon tank) and removed the carbon from the filter.  I've done 2 treatments, doing a 25% water change between treatments (per the box).

However, I'm concerned about not having the carbon in the tank with the 2 goldfish, since I am aware of the waste output issue with goldfish.

Is there anything I can do to help with the lack of carbon and/or the ick treatments?  The Baby Biorb doesn't have a heater, so I couldn't raise the temperature if I wanted to.

Any input you could provide would be greatly appreciated.  Thanks,

Janine

ANSWER: Hi Janine
Carbon is really only necessary to remove medications from the water.  It's not a requirement at all.  I don't use it in any of my tanks(only for removing meds).  

Now, you said the tank was stabilized for 3 weeks before adding the fish to it. Did you just have the water/filter running with no fish in it?  I'm thinking you're meaning you cycled it, but if that's all you did, that's not cycling the tank.  Here's a link that explains what cycling is, it's the first article on there:

http://freshaquarium.about.com/od/startupcycle/Step_5_The_Cycle.htm

So, if you had no ammonia source in the tank before adding the fish, it was basically just a tank of water-no cycling occured.

You're tank is too small for even one goldfish.  It's recommended to have at least 15 gallons for one.  They put out a lot of ammonia naturally, and they grow quite large, at least 8 inches, so they really need the larger tank.  

When you rinse the filter, how do you do that?  With tap water or with a bucket of tank water?  The 25% weekly water changes are good, but only if you're tank has completed that cycle process.  If it's going through the cycle now, you'll need to do daily water changes to help dilute the ammonia and nitrites that are being produced.  
Also, you shouldn't change out the filter that often.  Again, back to the cycle process, most of your beneficial bacteria will be growing on the filter(as well as the gravel and decorations in the tank), weekly rinsing in a bucket of tank water is good, and a filter should last at least 3 months before needing changing.  

I'd recommend buying a test kit that tests ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate and monitor those levels.  You want ammonia and nitrites at 0 ppm, and nitrates under 20 ppm.  If your tank is cycling though, those levels will be off, which would explain why they're having the ich outbreak.  Ich tends to take over the fish when they're stressed-which could be from being moved/rehomed to your tank, and also if the water quality is off.  Here's a few links that explain more what ich is and different treatment options.  You won't find a heater for that size tank, and ich needs to be treated for at least 3-5 days after the last spot falls off the fish, which can be up to 3 weeks.  Temperature plays a big factor in the ich life cycle, higher temperatures speeds up their life cycle, which is why it's recommended to increase the temperature.  Since you can't do that, you'll need to treat longer for it.  Ich is only killed when it's in it's "free swimming stage", which you can't see it then.  The only time you see it is when it's on the fish.  You could add some aquarium salt to the water, 1 tablespoon for your tank, or try a different medicine like Coppersafe, which is supposed to stay in the tank for a month-though that one some say can be stressful to fish.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ichthyophthirius

http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?cls=16&cat=1791&articleid=2421

Hope that helps and let me know if you have more questions.

Christy

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hi Christy,

Thanks for the response.  I am a new fish parent and I've been dependent upon the advice of the pet store (who told me I could have 2 goldfish in my tank!)  Now that I have both, I want to get a bigger tank.

When I set the tank up, I ran it for a week before adding the fantail, and then another week before adding the black moor.  I called it stabilized because that's what the fish store guys told me I was doing (apparently not!)

When I rinse the filter, it's with tap water, which I will stop doing!

Obviously, I need to change my maintenance methods.  What percentage of water change should I do:

1.  While treating for the ich.

2.  After treating the ich.

I'll also get a test kit and keep an eye on the levels.

Thanks!

Janine

Answer
Hi Janine
Rule number 1...don't ever listen to the advice of a pet store employee....it's sad, and there are some good employees that are familiar and experienced with fish, but I've only seen a few in the states I've lived in.  You'll find better and more experienced people at specialty stores that are geared towards fish.  But chain stores, it's been my experience that's not the case.  They actually go by a chart or care sheet they have in the back, which is usually not very accurate to start with, and they have no "personal" experience with the fish they have.  I could write an almost comical book about some of the experiences I've seen.  You're best bet is to do your own research online beforehand, about the types of fish you want, their care, any equipment, food, tank set ups, etc.

As far as the stabilizing, I've even read on some instructions that came a fish tank set up, they'll say to run the tank with just water for 2 days before adding fish.  I have no idea why lol, that really serves no purpose at all.  Fish could technically be added immediately.  

You don't want to rinse the filter with tap water, unless you're on well water.  City water uses chlorine or chloramines to sanitize the water, those will kill off the beneficial bacteria on the filter pad.  Think I mentioned, use a bucket of tank water to rinse those.

For water changes while treating for ich...that's a tough one.  You want to keep the meds in the water, but you also have to watch the ammonia and nitrite levels, which are going to be spiking.  For now, I would follow the instructions on the medicine package.  When you're done treating, if the tank is cycling still, you should do daily water changes to help dilute the ammonia and nitrites.  When it's done cycling, for a normal stocked tank, 25% weekly water changes and also vacuum the gravel weekly is usually good enough to keep those levels in check.

Let me know if you have more questions.

Christy