Fin rot and more...

Question
QUESTION: I've asked a lot of stores and some forums about what to do,
and I seem to be getting very mixed answers :( time for an
experts opinion.

I have a male crown tail, who has had finrot twice before.
Both those times it was just on the tips of his tail and it was
cured with 'aquari-cycline' and grew back. About a week
ago I noticed some small holes in his tail, and since there's
nothing in the tank save gravel and some java fern, I didn't
think it was a tear but it must be finrot again. I treated with
the same product, but the holes just got bigger and turned into
splits all the way down. Then the base of the dorsal fin
shriveled up, got a white fuzz, and fell off! I saw the white
fuzz start on his tail and started medicating with some fungus
multi cure. It seems that has stopped it.

Now my poor boy has a shortened and split tail, and almost
no dorsal fin. Whatever was there seems to have attacked
the top of his body too, as it looks red and sore. All that's left
there are some little spikes, it seems that he can move them
as they flick up if he flares. He seems really tired and sits at
the bottom of the tank all the time, occasionally rushing up for
air then back down. The tank is 20L, heated and filtered, I
treat the water with stress coat and do 20% water changes
once a week (daily now he's sick).

And now finally my questions. I moved him into a shallow
container so it was easier for him to breathe. Was this a bad
move? Epsom Salt baths, yes or no? What can I do to help
him get his energy back? I've been feeding him pellets and
bloodworms soaked in garlic juice, so far. Should I use
aquarium salts in his tank, or are they bad for bettas? Why on
earth does he keep getting fin rot, when I'm sure I'm doing
everything I've been told to do to keep the water nice for
him?

ANSWER: Jem,

Sorry to hear he is having problems. Lets see if I can help. If in his filter you are using carbon, and not removing it, that is why he doesn't get better. The carbon on the filter removes all the medication you are putting in. Betta's don't need filters and most don't like them. I have 11 adults and none of them have filter. First thing I would do is go ahead and remove the filter. Your tank, as far as size goes, is perfect. One of the things that makes the Betta so awesome are their fins and tails. With the plant, are the roots under the gravel. They have pointed end and its very easy for one of those flowing fins, or his tail, to get stuck on one. As far as the water changes go, I would do 25% every week. I personally never give my Betta's any garlic, but that's not to say you shouldn't. It is a personal choice and if he eats the food, then I would go ahead and continue that. They also need other things in their diet. Mine get frozen and freeze dried blood worms and brine shrimp, pellets, flakes, and the occasional live brine shrimp only because that's what I feed the fry.

Let's try giving him a salt bath, or dip. Place warm water, the same temp as the tank, in a one gallon container. Put 1 teaspoon aquarium salt to that water. Make sure the salt is completely dissolved before you place your fish in it. Let him swim around in that for 15 minutes. It's very important that you stay with him while in the salt water in case something happens and you can remove him right away. I usually do this twice a day. Once in the morning and once before lights out. You can put salt in his water as it helps prevent these kinds of problems.  Here's why I don't. When my fish are sick, I put them in the salt dip. If I put salt in their tank, then the salt baths don't work as well. Again, that is another personal choice. If you  decide to put salt in make sure it is no more than 1 teaspoon per gallon. When you change his water, add the salt to the new water not the whole tank. Salt does not evaporate and we don't want him to get too much. Remember to dissolve the salt before you put him in or it will burn him.

Since he still has parts of his fins, they will grow back. It will take about 9 months or so until it is fully regrown. You didn't mention water perimeters. Do you test his water?? If not, I suggest you get a tester from your local fish store. Do not get the strips as they are not accurate. The liquid testers are better. Everyone who has fish needs to have the water testing supplies.

Are you able to heat the smaller container that he is in? Since he is the only fish in the tank it's ok to treat him in there. If you decide to get other fish, it is a good idea to have a hospital tank just for these problems.

I think that once you remove the filter, and the medicine gets a chance to work, you will see a great improvement in him. Let me know if after all this he isn't better and I will try to figure out what to do next.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks so much for the fast response!
I took the carbon out of the filter when I started medicating,
but I did leave the cotton stuff, black plastic balls, and little
ceramic rings in there. Should I have taken them out too? I
leave the filter in on a very low flow, just to get the water
mixing a little. Otherwise it's warmer towards the heater and
cold on one side. I will invest in the flake food, then he will
have pellets, bloodworms and flakes. Sometimes he gets pea
too.
I just redecorated his tank while he's out, so I will do a comb
over for stray roots before he goes back! Thanks for that tip
:) With the salt bath, should I use water from the tank with medication in it, and add salt, or should I get new tap water,
dechlorinate it, and then add salt?
I currently get my water tested at the shop, but I'll get a kit
when I can afford it (they're quite expensive here. About
$60). They said my pH was a bit high, so two days ago I
started adding pH down into the water before it goes in the
tank. I'm moving the pH very slowly.
I have the shallow container with him in it floating in my
bigger tank to keep it warm. Should I put him back into his
tank? I only took him out because he seemed to be having
trouble getting to the top to breathe. I tried adding a tall java
fern for him to rest on, but he ignored it. I'm really worried by
how still he is, though he is still eating at this point.

ANSWER: Jem,

When doing the salt water bath use clean tap water with the conditioner added. The salt does a great job at helping the healing process. When the ph is up, the ammonia goes up. Its ok to move him to make things easier for him. I think the main problem with him is the water. Something, most likely the ammonia, is high and he is reacting to it. As for his breathing, is it very fast, slow, or normal? If its fast, than it is definitely a water issue. I have a product called black water extract. It makes the water more like where they came from. It does tint the water yellow, but all my adults have it in their tanks and I get awesome bubble nests from all my boys, and sometimes my females. They are more active they eat well and they are just happier. Its made by Tetra Aqua. I couldn't find it here had to have a friend send it to me. There has been a big change in my fish ever since I started using it. I even noticed my fry are growing faster and swim around much better. It comes in a yellow bottle and if you cannot find it let me know for I can send you some. Let see how your fish does after 3 days with the salt water dip. If he isn't better after that let me know. If the problem is in the filter you can clean it. I would get some tank water in a bowl and really rinse the filter in it then put it back in. I am having you clean it in tank water because that tank is already set up and if you clean the filter in tap water it will make your filter start the setting up stage again. While treating my fish, I turn up the heater to 86 degrees very slowly like 1 degree every 8 hours until I have it at the right temp. When we up the heater, it depletes the oxygen. Adding the air stone adds back that oxygen.

Let me know how it works out.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------


Blue   QUESTION: Blue is now back in his 20L tank and he seems to have more
energy! :) His tail is torn and short now, but I'm sure it will
grow back.
The only issue I'm really worried about now is his back.
Where the fungus grew at the base of his dorsal fin, his back
looks kind of... burnt? I can still see the pattern of scales
there, but they're clear or pink-ish. When I turn the light on,
that part of is body looks semi-transparent. It's slowly
spreading down one side. At the moment he's still in the
fungus meds, so the water looks kind of green. I attached an
image of what I'm talking about.
I'm wondering what it is, and what I'm supposed to do. It
spreads more each day, though is dorsal fin is growing back quickly! There was almost nothing there the other day.  

Answer
Jem,

 It could also be a fungal infection or it can be a color change. I would try treating him for a fungal infection just in case. I would also give him a salt dip/bath twice a day for a few days and see if that helps.  I have a few that change colors on me and it is natural. If no other signs of illness like not swimming or eating or just sits at the top or at the bottom, then I would,'t worry. Watch him for a week, giving medication if need and see if he gets better.