Leopard geckos walking strange

Question
QUESTION: Hi I bought two leopard geckos very recently from a private breeder. They are six weeks old and (hopefully) both females, one standard and one albino. at first the standard (which is smaller) was not eating, which i understand is due to stress of a new home etc; the albino ate a few crickets and a waxworm. today the albino resfuses to eat and the smaller one went on the hunt (which I was pleased with)
however the albino gecko seems to be dragging herself along the floor and isn't as agile as the other. she doesnt seem to use her hands much and looks as if she's struggeling; if i place her somewhere she rarely moves.. so I'm worried if shes overheating or not warm enough etc. Can they get MBD at this young age? I asked the breeder how often she dusted the bugs with calcium and she said not very often.. possibly once every two weeks and I wasnt sure if the she might have more difficulty taking in calcium due to her being albino? They are on lino whilst they are young and were kept on kitchen towel at the breeder
any information or advice would be much appreciated!

ANSWER: Hi Amie,
I'm hoping you have two females also!!!
The breeder really wasn't dusting the insects often enough, especially for baby leos. At the very least, two times a week plus a small lid with a calcium powder in it so they can lick at it at will.  More in the care sheet below that I've written.
Its doubtful that MBD would kick in at their age.  
The walking may be due to the smoothness of the flooring.  I would try paper towels, or my favorite, slate tile that has a slight roughness to it. She may also just be unsure of herself.  Try putting her in a shallow(no deeper than her elbows when laying flat) warm bath and see if she swims or moves about easier in the water.  Water temperature should be about 88-92 degrees.
As to eating too much, basically, what they can consume in 15-20 minutes is a good rule to follow.
Albinos shouldn't have a problem with calcium intake, but as I said, the breeder really wasn't giving them enough calcium.
If she continues to act odd, not moving, etc..try moving her to a different area such as your bed and see what she does.  You can also remove the other leo and see if she acts differently with the other one out of the tank. If she continues to look like she is struggling to walk, then I do suggest getting her vet checked.
You are right on the stress and not eating.  I do suggest that you get a good thermometer or temperature gun so you can be sure they are getting the needed temperature zones. Temperatures are listed in the care sheet below.
BASIC CARE FOR A LEOPARD GECKO
Leopards are pretty easy to care for but they do need
special care.  Here are some of the basic needs of your gecko.
HOUSING: The need to have at least a 20 gallon long tank for one Leo. This needs to have a secure fitting screen top...they can be quite the escape artists!!! They need to have a humid hide box.You can make this with something as simple as a small plastic dish with a hole cut in one side and a small mesh bag filled with some Sphagnum moss coconut bark or Peat moss that you mist.  
I made mine out of the small plastic folgers coffee containers...I cut an opening in the lid..and put the moss in..they LOVE it. I use the terrarium moss in mine.
I use that on the warm side of the tank. Be sure to provide a cool hidebox on the other end. I also provide a mid temperature hide...which is in the middle of the tank.I use the critter caves which you can purchase.  NOT the ones that have heat in them!!!!
Provide secure climbing areas for your gecko.  Fake plants, rocks and branches are all fine to use. be sure there are no wires or sharp ends to any fake plants you use.
*****SUBSTRATE:(that's the stuff on the floor of your tank) Newspaper, lizard carpet or paper towels work great and are easy to clean and are much safer than any loose substrate.  Sand or other loose substrate is not recommended as that they can be deadly to the leo when it is ingested(eaten, even by accident while eating their insects)...A very graphic site of an impacted leo surgery can be seen at http://homepage.mac.com/exoticdvm/reptile/PhotoAlbum181.html   it is very graphic!!! ******What I have found that works great for safety and heat distribution is using about 1/4 inch of children's play sand(since the tiles fit tight together, there is no sand danger) on the bottom of the tank and on top that you place ceramic or slate floor tile.  What is nice is that the 12 x 12 squares fit perfect in a 20 gallon tank with no spaces between the tiles.  The sand and the tile distribute the heat wonderfully.  Using the under tank heater as described is what distributes the heat.  Also, overhead heat will help in heating the tiles...I've been using this set up for several years and the leos love it.  Using a tile that isn't smooth is recommended.  **********
TEMPERATURES:  They need a warm area ( on the floor) of 88-92 degrees and a
cooler area  in the upper 70s,  low 80s.   At night their temperature can drop to the low to mid 70's.  
Never use a hot rock for a leopard gecko...or any reptile.
They can severely burn any reptile.  You can use a heating
pad under the tank,under tank heater for the warm area.  You can use a regular household light bulb in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket in it to keep the warm area at the 88-92 degree area if needed there, otherwise, placing the light bulb about midway in the tank will give the needed temperatures throughout the tank.  You may have to play with the wattage of the bulb but generally 40-60 watts is sufficient.At night, no white light. If room temperatures stay above 70 degrees, no extra night heat is needed. The under tank heater or heating pad should cover about 1/3 of the tank....be sure to raise the tank up about 1/4-1/2 inch off the stand when using an under tank heat source to prevent heat build up which can cause the glass to break and hot spots in the glass. Be sure to have a good layer of newspaper, carpeting or, even a thin flat rock(such as tile) on top the area that the under tank heat source is placed...if you use a thin rock or tile, it helps to distribute the heat very well.
You can  use the special nighttime lights that are designed for reptiles. I like using a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat for  nighttime heat.  
DO NOT use black lights or party lights as they can cause eye damage!!!!
The wattage you use will vary based on room temperature and size of tank.  
LIGHTING:  Leopard geckos do not need UVB lighting but it does not hurt them to give them uvb.  They should have some type of light during the day, be it a uvb tube, regular florescent light, reptile day light or regular household light bulb. NO white lights at night!!!
FEEDING: Geckos should not be fed  crickets or other insects that are bigger than the space between their eyes.  Generally, hatchlings can be fed more than once a day,juvys can be fed twice a day, adults are fed once daily or every other day, in the early evening. Crickets and other food items such as silk worms, super, and an occasional treat of a wax worm, need to be dusted with a calcium supplement two times a week and also they should have a small dish of calcium in their tank.  I use the lid of a milk jug for the little dish of calcium in their tank.  For dusting the insects, Use a calcium with D3 and no added phosphorus.  Insects must be gut loaded(fed) for at least 48 hours prior to feeding your gecko. Remove any uneaten crix or superworms after 15-20 minutes.....  Place a piece of cut potato in the tank so that if you have missed any uneaten insects, they will eat the potato instead of nibbling on your gecko!!!
*************You have to be sure to feed your crickets and insects the right foods before feeding them to your gecko.  If your crickets/insects are not healthy and well fed, your gecko will not get the nutrition he needs. You can gut load your crickets and insects greens, veggies, cereals or specially designed commercial foods for crickets or the insects you are feeding. ************
Be sure to have a small dish of clean water for your gecko at all times!!
You can offer them some baby food or fruits on occasion ...
Mine will even eat a small piece of watermelon now and then.WATER:  always provide a dish of drinking water.  If you choose to mist your gecko to drink, its best to not get the tank too wet as that they do not do well with higher humidity.  Sometimes its better to take your leo out of their tank to mist them to get them to drink!!!
HANDLING:  Some geckos enjoy being held...others prefer not to be handled at all.  Be sure to be very gentle when holding your leo and NEVER grab them by the tail!  Their tails are extremely fragile and will break.  
I do suggest finding a vet that can treat reptiles BEFORE you actually need one!!!  To find a vet that is able to care for reptiles:
http://www.herpvetconnection.com
http://www.arav.org/ECOMARAV/timssnet/amm/tnt_mdsearch.cfm
http://www.anapsid.org/vets/
For more information on leopard geckos:
http://www.drgecko.com
If you have any questions or don't understand something, please let me know.




---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thankyou for responding so quickly with useful information! I was worried about leaving the crickets in with the geckos but will now try the potato trick

Update for today I bought some hatchling locusts as they were being fed on them at the breeders and i wondered if theyd take more interest in them... the standard tried hunting again but they were a little too quick for her.. and they are in a 3ft tank so I tried feeding her in a seperate smaller tub and she had a cricket but then lost interest again
The albino showed no interest in the food at all and didn't bat an eyelid when they walked past her but when they touched her she shuffled away
I tried the water solution and she just stayed put and i put her on kitchen towel she still seems to be moving the same. The lino they're on isn't particularly smooth it's got some texture to it, but not very rough. I rang the breeder today to ask if she noticed anything and she said they were fine when she had them..but i did pick this up on the first night. She said that when they start to shed their skin can become tighter making it difficult for them to walk so to wait for their next shed and see if there's any change, if not I'm gonna take her to the vets.
The breeder incubated the eggs at a lower temperature so they should hopefully be females, which I will possibly find out in about a month. They have a heat mat in one third of their tank which is at around 29degrees, a moonglo night light and a reptiglo 2.0 daytime light.
i put her in a locust tub and she pulled herself out of it so she's not looking too weak. I could try filming her and posting a link on here for you to look at and perhaps advise me if you think it is abnormal?
sorry if I'm overloading you now! I work at a petshop so I really do care about the welfare of any animal and I'm major worrying about this little lady and I really appreciate your help!
Thanks so much

ANSWER: Hi Amie,
Be sure to provide the humid hide as I described.  Also, you can take her out of her tank(you don't want to make the tank too wet) and mist her with some warm water.  It does make sense on the skin tightening so the misting should help and of course the humid hide is vital to shedding.
You sound like you are doing well with them.
When their tails are nice and chubby, they are doing well.
One trick with crickets is that you can break their hind legs off...this slows the crickets down so they can't jump. Will also work with locust..but be sure that the locust aren't too big for them.
You need to have a warm area that the temperature is   31 to almost 34 degrees C.  The best is to have that temperature on the floor and most of the space above on the one end of the tank. Raising the temperature  in that area may be all she needs!!!
She may need to see the vet if she doesn't start eating. She may have a few too many parasites that are making her not want to eat.You aren't overloading me at all. Hopefully we can get her straightened out soon!!!

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Hey, They have a humid hide in the warm end of the tank with some moist spahgnum moss in a reptile cave. I have bought a shedding rock but theyre too small at the moment to get in and out of! I haven't noticed any skin change since I've had her so I'm not sure when she's due her next shed, I think her last one was about a week ago. I will try misting her outside the tank tonight and will raise the temp to about 32 degrees and see how that goes :)
They are only about 3 inches long so their tails haven't quite caught up with their bodies yet, the albino, (being bigger) her tail is quite fat and hasn't lost weight since I've had her
about the crickets/locusts legs! Why I didn't think of that I don't know, it seems so obvious! but I will try that thanks :) luckily I overcome my fear of the bugs when i had an accidental break out in my room!

I managed to get a video of them together, you can see a difference but I'm not sure if I'm just being paranoid as I've only had them 4 days! but if there is a problem I'd much rather prevent now it than leave it and have to cure it later on.. if it can be cured.
I understand that only the vet can diagnose, but if you think that she should be taken to the vet then thats good enough for me.  If she doesn't continue eating I will take her in to get her checked to be on the safe side.

okay here's the two together:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KL-NJ_0EJo

and her on her own:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0IZXm7VeMdI

she can move pretty quick if she wants to!!

Again thanks for all your help and fast response :)
It's much more reassuring speaking to someone with alot of experience with leopard geckos!

Answer
Hi Amie,
The YouTube tells me the videos are private, so I can't see them. Hopefully, raising the temperature does the trick.  I would also try offering her some smaller crickets (made to not hop, lol) and see if she has interest in them.
Believe me, I know what you mean about bugs!!  When I got my first order of crickets VIA mail, I didn't know that they were just in that box and opened it..expecting to find them in another box inside....little did I know!! amazing how fast they can hop out of something!!!  That was one heck of a round up time for me, thats for sure.
If the temperature correction doesn't work, I would get her to the vet for a fecal(take a sample in) as she may have stressed more than the other one and her parasite load is too great for her.  Generally a parasite load will cause them to look a bit bloated in the stomach, but don't count on that to be a symptom.