Is sandstone problem?

Question
I bought a sandstone centerpiece at Petco for my 10 gallon aquarium (rainbow colored stone). Is that okay? The pH has been dropping to about 6.2.  When I change half the water and put in a scoop of "proper pH 7.5" buffer salts, the pH is back to 6.2 within a couple of days. We are worried because the larger fish (4 inch body, large fan tail, 4 years old) has been acting sick -- tail drooping badly, very lethargic and does not seem to be responding to the usual things that work (water changes, feeding peas). I am wondering if the sandstone could be the problem. Thanks!

Answer
Hi Yochanan, I'm sorry, I answered this question the day you sent it, I don't know why it came back again?  That's bizarre.  

I had said that sandstone is one of the "better" stones that you can use safely in a fish tank, so I don't believe that that would make your PH go so low.  I don't think putting chemicals in it is going to do anything to help, it's just a short term "fix" and with the PH going up and down like a yoyo, your fish are likely to get stressed and sick.  So I'm going to suggest something to you to try to help stabilize it.  For now, I'm going to ask you to please stop using the Proper PH.  This is just adding chemicals for a "quick fix" rather then fixing the problem.

What I'm going to ask you to do first is 2 tests.  First, test your tap water PH that is coming straight from your tap.  See what that comes out as(do not add any water conditioners or anything, just straight out of the tap).  The second test, add some water conditioner and do the test and see what it comes out as.  Then e-mail me and let me know and let me know what type of water conditioner you used.  This way we will know if it is your tap water with the problem or your tank with the problem.

In any event, I am going to ask you to do the following, to see if we can bring the PH back up naturally.  I think we're going to have you try partial water changes gravel vacuuming, to help replace the old acidity water and get things back in order soon without stressing the fish any more then what they already must be.

This is how you'll do it:

The first time, vacuum the gravel while taking out about 50% of the water.  Replace that water with conditioned water at about the same temperature as what you took out.

Then, perform a 25% water change and light vacuuming twice a week.  As the water is replaced, so are the natural buffers that control it.  The vacuuming also removes waste matter that causes pH to be low. You could even do a 25% water change every day (only vacuuming the gravel twice a week, because there is good bacteria that shares space with the "bad" stuff. The idea is to change no more than 25% at a time, and no more often than every 24 hours.  By doing this, you should see a change within a few days to a week.

I had asked you to get back to me with the PH readings from the tap water.  I will also ask you to get back to me after about a week and let me know if your PH levels are rising like this.  Again, please do not use the ProperPH while doing this, because they are better off with a steady PH level then a "roller coaster" fluctuation like has been happening.  If/when it comes back up, it's going to probably be a "slow up" which is good, because it won't "shock" them.  

As far as your fantail, this SHOULD perk him up, but you also need to check for outward signs of illness, and also see if his top dorsal fin is down against him.  You need to examine him closely for any outward signs of illness (i.e. looking like he's been sprinkled by salt, white patches of stuff on him, etc.).  I myself think he may be in PH shock from it going up and down and up and down.  This is VERY stressful on these guys.  Not to make you feel bad, but they would have been better off just leaving the PH alone, and they could adjust.  

You don't mention how often you are doing water changes, but tank maintenance should be performed weekly, ESPECIALLY with goldfish, as they are about the messiest fish out there.  They are nicknamed "pigfish" because of the amounts of waste they produce.  It is extremely important NOT to overfeed these guys (I KNOW they are sever beggars put promise they will not starve to death with 2 small feedings (or even 1) a day.  They are scavengers and will have no problem finding food to eat.

Here is a website which will be very helpful to you with tank maintenance, and also a link for goldfish care (all from the same site).  It is an EXCELLENT site full of information which you may want to check out:  http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_cleaning.html and http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Aquarium_Disease.html and for the goldfish: http://www.americanaquariumproducts.com/Goldfish_disease.html

On a last note, after about 4 days, IF the PH is not coming back up, take the sandstone out and see if that returns the PH to a normal level.  IF it does, it could indicate that for some strange reason (and none I've ever heard of), the sandstone is probably the culprit.  But DO NOT do this before that amount of time because then you won't know if it was your tank cleaning or the sandstone, if that makes sense.

I will wait to hear back from you with all the information.  I sure hope these suggestions bring this matter to a quick resolution and your fish get to feeling better.  If you do find any outward signs of illness on your older goldie, or any other, let me know and I can help you out with that also.

Shewwwwww, typing this 2 times was rough.  And I sure hope this helps, which I'd be astonished if it didn't.

I will wait to hear from you.  Again, I sent this on the day you originally asked the question, so I do not understand how or why it didn't get to you.  My apologies.

Good luck!!!    ;o)

PS:  If you don't already have one, you should invest in a Master Water Kit so that you can test your water parameters weekly, or if your fish seem to be acting sick or stressed.  These kits test PH, Nitrites, Nitrates and Ammonia.  You didn't say if you've tested for these things or if you did, what the levels are, but I would be willing to bet that at this point in time, they are either all elevated, or at least one or two of them.  These are important things to keep a check on in your water, as certain levels of all of them (or even one of them), can kill your fish.  Please let me know if you have performed any of these tests, or let me know after you have.  The dip stick tests I found are not reliable, that's why I suggested a master water test kit.  They run around $20 but are worth every penny if it can save your fish.  ;o)