food,and light wattage

Question
hi im jesse,
im thinking of geting a loepared gecko and im confused with food. i herd u should freed it some dust every 2 weeks i was wondering what is that for? i also have a question a bout wattege for lamp at the stores i see 100 wg, 60 wg ect. i was hoping u would help me out on that subject so i can be ready for a new pet.


p.s. cricket sise big,small wich size?


Answer
Hiya Jesse!!!
Leos are great little lizards!!  What they are referring to on the dust is calcium powder. They need calcium to help build strong bones, same as we do.  You need to supply a small dish of plain calcium in their tank and about every other time you feed them you dust the insects with the calcium that contains Vitamin D3.
As far as the wattage of the light bulb goes, that depends on a lot of things like the size of the tank and the room temperature.  Most often, for a 20 gallon tank(which is recommend for a leo) a 40 -60 watt bulb is sufficient. If you are using an under tank heater an it maintains the correct temperatures, for light, you can use a fluorescent tube.  I like using one that produces some uvb also, even though they don't need it, it won't hurt them and it may benefit them.
On the size of the crickets, it depends on the size of the leo.  Never feed any insects larger than the space between their eyes.

I've included a basic care sheet which has two very good links to leopard gecko care.

Leopards are pretty easy to care for but they do need
special care.  Here are some of the basic needs of your
gecko.
HOUSING: The need to have at least a 20 gallon long tank for
one Leo. This needs to have a secure fitting screen top...they can be quite the escape artists!!! They need to have a humid hide box.You can make
this with something as simple as a small plastic dish with a
hole cut in one side and a small mesh bag filled with some
Sphagnum moss, coconut bark or Peat moss that you mist.  
 I use that on the warm side of the tank. Be sure to provide a cool hidebox on the other end. I use the critter caves which you can purchase.  NOT the ones that have heat in them!!!!
Provide secure climbing areas for your gecko.  Fake plants, rocks and branches are all fine to use.

SUBSTRATE:(that's the stuff on the floor of your tank) News
paper, lizard carpet or paper towels work great and are easy
to clean and are much safer than any loose substrate.

TEMPERATURES:  They need a warm area of 88-90 degrees and a
cooler area  in the upper 70s,  low 80s.   At night their
temperature can drop to the low to mid 70's.  
Never use a hot rock for a leopard gecko...or any reptile.
They can severely burn any reptile.  You can use a heating
pad under the tank,an inder tank heater to cover about 1/3 if the tank, or you can use a regular household
lightbulb in a dome fixture with a ceramic socket in it to
keep the warm area at the 88-90 degree area.At night, no white light. If room temperatures stay above 70 degrees, no extra night heat is needed.
You can  use the special nighttime lights that are designed for reptiles. I like using a ceramic heat emitter on a thermostat for  nighttime heat.  
DO NOT use black lights or party lights as they can cause eye damage!!!!
The wattage you use will vary based on room temperature and size of tank.  
LIGHTING:  Leopard geckos do not need UVB lighting but it does not hurt them to give them uvb.  They should have some type of light during the day, be it a uvb tube, regular florescent light, reptile day light or regular household lightbulb. NO white lights at night!!!

FEEDING: Geckos should not be fed  crickets or other insects that are bigger than the space between their eyes.  Crickets and other food items such as silk worms, super, and an occasional treat of a wax worm, need to be dusted with a calcium supplement two times a week and also they should have a small dish of calcium in their tank.  I use the lid of a milk jug for the little dish of calcium in their tank.  For dusting the insects, Use a calcium plus D3 with no added phosphorus.  I use the Rep Cal brand on all the vitamins and calcium. Dust the insects at least once a week with a  vitamin supplement.
Insects must be gut loaded(fed) for at least 48 hours prior to feeding your gecko. Remove any uneaten crix or superworms after 15-20 minutes.....  Place a piece of cut potato in the tank so that if you have missed any uneaten insects, they will eat the potato instead of nibbling on your gecko!!!
You have to be sure to feed your crickets the right foods
before feeding them to your gecko.  If your crickets/insects are not healthy and well fed, your gecko will not get the nutrition
he needs. You can gut load your crickets greens, veggies, cereals or specially designed commercial foods for crickets or the insects you are feeding.
Be sure to have a small dish of clean water for your gecko
at all times!!
You can offer them some baby food or fruits on occasion ...
Mine will even eat a small piece of watermelon now and then.


HANDLING:  Some geckos enjoy being held...others prefer not to be handled at all.  Be sure to be very gentle when holding your leo and NEVER grab them by the tail!  Their tails are extremely fragile and will break.  
I do suggest finding a vet that can treat reptiles BEFORE you actually need one!!!  To find a vet that is able to care for reptiles:
http://www.anapsid.org/vets

For more information on leopard geckos:
http://www.thegeckospot.com/leocareindex2.html
http://www.drgecko.com


If you have anymore questions or don't understand something, please be sure to ask.