Please Help!!

Question
QUESTION: I have had my bearded dragon for about 2 months. He just now recently stopped eating. He lays around with his eyes closed and sometimes his legs twitch. He drags his back legs when he walks. I feed him crickets and meal worms. I have a 50 watt Exo Terra light on the top of his cage. He has a worm side and a cool side. Please help me I'm getting very worried!!

ANSWER: Hi Brooke, There are a couple critical aspects to his care that you have not mentioned that could lead to this condition. I can't tell from your question whether he is receiving additional calcium and vitamin D3 with his insects (this comes as a powder that is dusted onto the insects) or if he has an ultraviolet B (UVB) light in addition to his heat lamp. Both of these are critical to avoiding the developement of calcium deficiency and metabolic bone disease which it strongly sounds like your bearded is showing symptoms for. When the calcium levels drop the bones become soft and weak and the dragon can no longer walk or climb. Calcium also plays a role in nerve transmission and muscle twitching and tremors called tetany is the result when calcium is low. A vet visit where calcium and vitamin shots can be  given would really be the best option but in the meanwhile you should try to get him outside into unfiltered, direct (not through glass or plastic) sunlight for 20 - 30 minutes daily. The sun is the best source of UVB until you get the proper lighting. He should be set up with a Zoo-Med 10.0 UVB fluorescent tube bulb on his cage as well. You will also need to get some calcium and D3 into him either through hand feeding him dusted insects or adding a pinch to some chicken or veg based baby food and dabbing some on his snout if he is no longer taking insects. The vitamin D3 (which he will also synthesize on his own by being exposed to the sun) allows him to absorb the calcium that you give him. I would also check his basking temperature to make sure it is around 100 - 105 F range. He needs this temperature to properly metabolize his food and absorb and metabolize the calcium.

Here are a couple good info sites on what may be your dragon's problem. Good luck with his recovery.

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=1603&S=4&SourceID=56

http://www.veterinarypartner.com/Content.plx?P=A&A=1445&S=4&SourceID=56

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QUESTION: Thank you so much! That really helps a lot. I purchased my Beardie at PetSmart, and the employee that helped me with him told me all I needed was a tank, some of that reptile carpet, and the heat light that I mentioned above. I have been feeding him baby crickets that I have bought from Petsmart and they do put the calcium dust on there. But I am worried about the UVB light that I do not have! I am definately going to Petsmart first thing in the morning to purchase one. Do I put both the heat lamp and UVB light in the cage at the same time.. Do I turn it off at night? I'm sorry for all the questions but Petsmart was no help to me at all! I have read about some calcium spray, would that be good to spray on his food? I am going to take him out tomorrow and let him get some sun. If I do all of this, will my baby be ok? I am so scared! But thanks again you have helped way more than them Petsmart workers!!

ANSWER: Hi Brooke, Receiving incomplete care advice is a very common problem with pet store chains. They may omit information out of ignorance themselves or to not discourage a sale. Be warned that the UVB bulb and fixtures can be a little expensive. Unfortunately, the crickets he was being given would have had virtually no calcium on them when he received them. They really must be "dusted" (put them in a plastic bag with a pinch of calcium/vitamin powder and shake to coat them) just before you feed them to your dragon. Otherwise it just falls off or the crickets groom most of it off themselves.
The heat light and UVB light go on together and basically duplicate the sun, turn them off at night. The UVB light does not produce heat and should sit on a screen lid or can hang slightly inside the tank as well. The UVB will be blocked by glass or plastic.  Your dragon should ideally be able to get within a foot or so to it for the benefit. There are other brands available but Zoo-Med is considered one of the best and most reliable, get the long tube rather then the compact or coiled type though. I think that the Rep-Cal brand with vitamin D3 and no phosphorous and the Miner All I (with vitamin D3 for indoor lizards) are the best brands of calcium. I don't put much stock in the spray on types and would avoid them.

I hope your little dragon is able to recover completely. It helps that he is young. Handle him very gently or as little as you can right now as his bones are likely quite fragile.

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QUESTION: You have been a lot of help. I went and purchased a 10.0 UVB bulb. It says it is 33% UVA and 10% UVB. Right now I have both of my lights on my cage. I am putting calcium dust on his crickets and worms. He seems to be eating more worms than crickets because he doesn't like chasing them. He already seems to be more active but he still has trouble walking. I take him out in the sun during the day. I am broke now and I can not afford a vet visit. Do you think this will reverse any damage?

Answer
Hi Brooke, It sounds like he is making good progress and you have everything he needs now. I'm really glad to hear that he is eating on his own. They often prefer the worms due to their higher fat content but try to keep variety in his diet. Beardeds are omnivorous (more so as they get older) and will also take some finely chopped greens like collards, escarole, dandelion and kale.
You should not be seeing any more twitching at this point I hope. The low blood calcium levels cause that and the body will correct that first before restoring the bone calcium levels. Hopefully, his walking difficulties are due to weakened leg bones and not related to any permanent spinal damage. When the spine becomes soft and weak it can press on the spinal column and cause inflammation and walking problems. Only time will tell now but he seems to be moving in the right direction.

This is my favourite care site for beardeds. Dr.Tosney is the head of biology at the Univ. of Miami and keeps and raises beardeds herself.

http://www.bio.miami.edu/ktosney/file/BDcare.html