Robo babies, Gerbil trauma, Guinea Pigs?

Question
QUESTION: I'm sorry if I'm asking too much at the same time.
I have 3 Robo hamsters, 2 gerbils, 2 rabbits and we are getting 2 chickens. Firstly I am contemplating the matter of guinea pigs for my birthday - actually a little more than that, I'm fairly sure that I want guinea pigs. Through the fault of many years accumulating pet-related objects we have a guinea food bowl, water bottle, special hay, wood shavings, bed, vitamins and a huge run for them to exercise in on the grass. The run is 12ft squared, is it big enough for 3 male guinea pigs to be in together? How big does the hutch have to be? We have our eye on quite a substantial one on the Pets At Home website, on page three of the guinea pig merchandise called 'Guinea Pig Cottage Hutch'. Is this big enough?
Onto gerbils, the worst thing happened to me in late March. We had owned two gerbils for the past two years, (Ronnie and Pippin) and we were letting them out for a run on the sofa and arm chairs ... they jumped off when we were playing with them, but this was fine because we've had them out in the living room before. We caught Pippin, but ... I tripped and fell on Ronnie. It was one of the worst things I've ever done (wait a minute, next paragraph will tell you another of the worst). Of course Pippin was distraught and went off his food and wouldn't come out, so we picked up a lone gerbil at the pet shop. We named him Yoshi, because he was fun-loving and agile like one of the characters in our Nintendo Game. We are thinking of getting him a plastic tank with layered platforms that we have seen in the petshop ... or would just a normal tank be Ok? Anyway, we've tried the gerbils together lots of times and all they do is sniff and lick each other's mouths. We thought Pippin would be a problem, but when they shared a cage Yoshi was being a bully and chased Pippin out of the sleeping area. Yoshi had been on his own for an extended 3 weeks, whereas Pippin was still used to having a friend. How do you suggest we introduce them?
Now onto the hamsters. We adopted two Roborovski hamsters within 5 months of each other, both were a year old and had lived alone all their lives. We were warned to keep them apart. It was love at first sight, they adored each other and ... well, a nest of babies appeared in the cage. We removed the father and provided her with millet seed, bread-soaked milk and cheese. We saw three babies, but ever since she's been hiding them away. For two days there was no sound, so fearing the worst I opened the cage. I picked up the sleeping house and there was the mother! Her beautiful nest fell around her in shambles and the babies fell out. She must've eaten them because I touched one as well (one of the worst things I have ever done, they are dead because of me). Today they are two weeks old, so we got them out to clean the cage. We found one baby. He was alive, he was well, but the mother wasn't ... possessive of him. We quickly cleaned the cage and put them back, but the mother couldn't find the baby! We THINK she's found him, but I really don't want to interfere. He's squeaking loudly, calling out to her or cuddling up to her? What do we do to help them? It says we can pick him up after 2 weeks of age, but I really don't know and I really don't want to in case something happens. The poor mother is going mad, she was dashing around the cage, falling over and out of things. I really hope she's found her baby and is sleeping with him. Do you know anything about raising the baby? When he'll be weaned, etc. Can we put him in with the father if he's a boy, or keep him with the mother if she's a girl?

Thank you.

Becky.

ANSWER: Thanks for taking the time to ask all experts.
Since you have many questions I will answer each one at a time so I dont miss any and I hope that this works for you :)

Q)The run is 12ft squared, is it big enough for 3 male guinea pigs to be in together?

A)13 SQ FT is recommended for three guinea pigs so one foot minus should be just fine it doesnt have to be perfect. There is a great website that give you all the measurements you may like to know .
http://www.guineapigcages.com/

Q) How big does the hutch have to be?

A)A cage doesnt meed to be tall since guineas arnt climbers that much but width or length need to be in good size for room to roam or run. The normal size is 30" x 36" per guinea or 7.5 SQ FT per guinea, but again the chart and pictures on the above website are a great example of what to go with.

Q)Or would just a normal tank be Ok?

A) As guinea pigs are not typical climbers gerbils and other rodents love to hide and climb and even jump. With an aquarium you need to remember to give them something to enjoy not just a flat surface. Dont worry about money take things that you may have around the house to use. I used a kids play house once in an aquarium and even square tubberwares turned upside down with holes cut into them. It is all based on what you want and how creative you can be.

Q)How do you suggest we introduce them?

A)With two new animals together it is best to introduce in a neutral territory. Like a new cage, couch, ect. This way no one has claim to the area and neither feel like they need to be on the guard. I usually always cleaned the cage fresh, placed a plastic divder between the cage to make it into halves and then put one on each side. This way they can see one another but not hurt each other. You can even drill holes in the divider if you wish. I know you can buy them at pet stores or you can make one as long as it is hard plastic they cant climb over. A great site I found that will help is:
http://www.peteducation.com/article.cfm?c=18+1799&aid=1622

Q)Concerning the baby hamsters

A)It is most common that if a nest is disturbed or a baby touched that the mother will eat them. She will also eat them if one is sick. Most rodents and cats do this as well. After 2 weeks it is safe to clean the cage but since she seems stressed I would not bother them unless it is needed to clean the cage. If she cannot find the baby you can always take the baby and lay it out in the open on a small cloth so she is bound to find it or near her food/water. If you see him gone then you know she has moved him.

Now about 11-12 days his eyes will open and you will see him moving around more and even drinking from the water bottle, remember to place it lower so he can reach it. You can also put in a cucumber for him to nourish on and they will get plenty of fluids that way as well.

At 4 weeks he should be able to be placed in separate cages or with other hamsters including the dad. As far as which cage to place him in that is dependent on if you want more babies or not. Females can get pregnant at 1-3 months and will be in heat if not pregnant already ever 4 days. So it is all up to you on that end. This site gives some more reading on baby hamster care just in case :)
http://www.ahappypets.com/pet_info/Baby_hamster/baby_hamsters.htm

I hope that this helps. I know that you feel upset but we all live and learn and sometimes we have accidents and make mistakes. Now you know what to do and can make better for the nest hamster.

Thanks,
Dawn

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Dear Dawn,
Your answer was exceptional! Thank you ...

Topsy's cage seems to have stopped altogether, the squeaking had started a while ago but there hasn't been any noise or movement from either of them for 2 days. Not even Topsy.

A note on the gerbils: outside of the cage they nuzzle and sniff, they're fine together. Except Pippin keeps on stopping suddenly and Yoshi climbs on to his back - not at the end, like in mating - but literally lies side-on down the middle of his back. Pippin doesn't move throughout this whole process, but Yoshi seems to be moving his claws in his fur before finally pushing away and running off as far as he can. It looks like Yoshi's trying to assert himself, but I see them lick each other's mouths and they never strike out at each other. Their cages are side-by-side, so they should know their scents. I will try cage dividing but Pippin is a two-year-old 10cm long gerbil and Yoshi's half that and not even one year old.

Onto Guinea Pigs: quick question from my Mum 'If you buy three boys do you have to get them all neutered?' We've already got three boy names lined up, (Chico, Milo and Gizmo) and ... we would prefer three boys, but if girls don't have to be spayed? We got both our rabbits done and in total that was over 200 hundred pounds for a girl and boy. Our friend's vet does them 20 pounds each, but that's an hour or so away. Do animals mind very long car journeys? I guess if they were in a box the whole time it would be bad for them - but we have this indoor rabbit cage which we can set up and then they'd be travelling in something very normal to them. Should we try a different vet for the sake of our guinea pigs?

Thank you (got to go, Tim's just woken up - he hasn't been sleeping well lately and is waking up more in the mornings and evenings)

PS: thanks for the web addresses, they were really helpful.

ANSWER: I have had many guinea pigs and never neutered any of them. I kept the males and female separate. I only had one pair that didnt get along. I find it unneeded as long as they are all the same sex.

As for traveling I take mine guinea pigs each in their separate carrier, some food, water bottle, treats, and large box when I go to the vet. When we get to the vet they get roam in the box while we wait and I give them treats/food to occupy them. They dont seem to mind the drive and it can be up to 45min away sometimes. I did find a website about guinea pig travel you may want to look into.

Thanks for following up and feel free to ask more questions:)

http://www.petco.com/Content/ArticleList/Article/37/19/776/Traveling-with-Your-G

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Dear Dawn.
WWWWOOOOWWW. I'm so sorry I keep on asking you things over and over and over, but we have ANOTHER dilemma. I opened the cage and found the baby under the nesting box (nearly 3 weeks old!) but the mother was inside. She wouldn't move or come out for the entire duration of the 15 minutes we had them out. I didn't want to drag her out in case she really didn't want to. The baby shot out as soon as I lifted up the top and went running around the cage - but she didn't come out. He looks ... fed, I guess, a mini image of his mother and just as fast and lively. But why didn't she come out? She's usually very fun and out-going, the father was the shy one. I played with the baby and sprinkled food around for him to find. The waterbottle can't be lowered enough for him to reach (bad cage, I guess) so I gave him some cabbage. I don't know what else to do. What do I do about the mother? Does the baby still need her precious milk? Can he survive at this age if she doesn't come around? Should I take them out tomorrow as well or let her settle? Should I cover up the cage like I've been doing or just let the baby get used to normal light? When can I sex him?

Thank you again.
BECKY

Answer
Q)What do I do about the mother?

A) I cant say there is much to do. She has to take her own course. Sometimes they seem not to do much with their babies but then others are very possessive and even bite. Each is different. I would let nature take it's course. She will more than likely do as she should and continue to nurse. Now is the time they may began to explore even if their eyes may not be fully functional. This may be the case and it just wasn't time to feed so she didn't bother to come out and play.

Q)Does the baby need the mothers milk?

A)Two weeks you will see teeth and they will began to try and eat food here and there but still need milk. At three  weeks they should be  eating solid food and even trying to drink from a water bottle(I know its high) or even a small amount out of a bowl. By four weeks they will be weaned and on their own and mom will do like most mothers and refuse to give milk and make them be on their own at this time.

Q)Can he survive at this age if she stops feeding?

A) At two weeks he still needs milk. He may need you to give it to him if he is showing signs of not being taken care of. You can do this by using an eye dropper or one found in infant Tylenol. Using this you feed him every 2-3 hours during the day and once in the middle of the night. You can give him 0.03ml at each meal time of  2tsp water to 1/2 tsp formula. The formula you use is Baby SOY FORMULA like you buy at the store. You can do either powder of liquid with the same amounts. I recommend liquid only because it comes in small cans vs a large can you may not need later.


To wean him yourself you begin to give him the formula out of the dish, like a lid of some kind that is shallow, instead of the dropper. Also start offering him other foods that are first kinda soft and gradually go to harder food until he is weaned at 4 weeks from milk all together.

Q) Covering the cage?

A)You can cover the cage if you have a ceiling fan or something of that nature that may cause a chill. However remember that rats like to "collect" items and will try to chew the cover. This is not harmful but make sure you use something you dont care about being torn :)

Q) Sexing the baby?

A)Sexing can be done at anytime. You look for two things.
1)Females have 12 nipples
2)Males will show testicles and NO nipples

Here is a great website that shows how:
http://www.evergreenrattery.com/careguide/sexing.html

This website gives alot more detail on caring for baby rats that are orphaned.


http://www.ratfanclub.org/orphans.html