puppy housetraining.

Question
I just recently got a five month old mini poodle, and I am attempting to house train her. I've tried using the crate, and she does pretty well for the most part. She does sometimes eliminate in it, and then she starts yipping and stuff. Everything I've read says to just clean up the mess, and to clean up her, so that's what I've been doing. The problem is, she does not understand at all that she is not supposed to go in the house. the only reason she won't go in her crate is because she doesn't want to sit in it, but I can't teach her that it is WRONG to go in her crate or in the house.

My guess is that to teach her that it is wrong, I would have to catch her in the act, and the administer some type of strong correction. The problem is, when she does in her crate I can't get to her until she is already done, and so I can't correct her. All I can do in clean up the mess. Not only that, but she won't go outside after eliminating in her crate, so it is quite pointless to take her outside. When she is in the house out of her crate I can never catch her in the act. don't know how she does it, but today I had her tethered in the kitchen while I was making breakfast, and she was in full view. A little bit later I noticed a wet spot on the kitchen floor. I don't know how she did it without anyone noticing since there were several people in the kitchen.

She does normally go when I take her outside, but she has the ability and knack to hold her self to abnormal amounts of time. I'm having a really hard keeping track of how long she can hold it, and it's a little frustrating. I don't think I'm getting anywhere with her because I never seem to be able to get to her in time to interrupt her accidents. (She is under observation almost all the time, but it seems like the one time I'm not watching she messes up.)

I don't know what to do. I'm trying tethering her in the living room, and keep a eye on her, but I'm still afraid I won't be able to stop her.

What do you think I should do?

Answer
The essence is taking her out at the right time and praising her when she eliminates outside.  The older the puppy, the harder it is because they can go so much longer.  This requires careful observation of her.  I have never tethered the puppy to me, but you may have too.  Also, when you take her out, it is important to make her move around to stimulate her body to eliminate.  

This general information has many details you need.  

 Much of housebreaking is not training the puppy, but making it easier for your puppy, you, and your carpet while its body to catches up to its instincts. At around 8 weeks when the puppy goes to its new home, the time from when it realizes it has to go, and when it can't wait any longer is a matter of seconds. Only time will fix that. You can hardly be expected to be attentive enough to avoid all accidents. There is no sense punishing the puppy for your inattention. It is not fair to punish you either, but you still have to clean it up if you didn't have the puppy outside in time.

Housebreaking starts before you get home with the new puppy. If you don't have a crate, buy one. I prefer the more enclosed, den like plastic ones. Skip the bedding. At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking hazards. A wire grid in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but expensive and hard to find. A piece of closely spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. I am now using a plastic vegetable bin with plenty of holes drilled in the bottom. It helps block off part of the crate for the smaller puppy. If you already have a metal crate, covering it may help. Just make sure you use something the puppy can't pull in and chew. Dogs that start out in crates as little puppies, accept them very well. Never leave an unattended puppy loose in the house. If nobody can watch it, put it in the crate. I suggest letting the dog have its crate all its life. A crate needs to be just big enough for a dog to stretch out in.

Choose a command and spot you want it to use. The less accessible to strays, the less chance of serious disease. If it is a female, choosing a non grassy spot will avoid brown spots later. When you bring it home, take it to the spot and give it the command in a firm, but friendly voice. Keep repeating the command and let the puppy sniff around. Sometimes you need to walk it around to stimulate its body to eliminate.  If it does anything, praise it. Really let it know what a good dog it is and how much you love it, and maybe a treat. Note, being out there not only means you can praise it, but it also keeps it from being snatched by a hawk. If it doesn't go, take it inside and give it a drink and any meals scheduled. A young puppy will need to go out immediately afterward. Go to the spot and follow the above routine. Praising it if it goes is extremely important. If it doesn't go, take it back inside and put it in its crate and try again soon. Do not let it loose in the house until it does go.

At first it is your responsibility to know and take the puppy out when it needs to go. It needs to go out the first thing in the morning, after eating, drinking, and sleeping. If it quits playing, and starts running around sniffing, it is looking for a place to go. Take it out quickly. You will just have to be what I call puppy broke until it is a little older. How successful you are depends on how attentive you are.

By the time most dogs are about 3 months old, they have figured out that if they go to the door and stand, you will let them out. The praise slowly shifts to going to the door. Some people hang a bell there for the dog to paw. If your dog doesn't figure this out, try praising it and putting it out if it even gets near the door. When you catch it in the act, give it a sharp ''Ah, ah, ah!'' and take it out. Clean up accidents promptly. I mostly keep the little puppies out of the carpeted rooms. Still I need the can of carpet foam sometimes. First blot up all the urine you can with a dry towel. Keep moving it and stepping on it until a fresh area stays dry. A couple big putty knives work well on bowel movements. Just slide one under it while holding it with the other. This gets it up with a minimum of pushing it down into the carpet. This works with even relatively soft ones, vomit, dirt from over turned house plants, or anything else from solids to thick liquids. Finish up with a good shot of carpet foam. Note, do not let the puppy lick up the carpet foam. Once the dog is reliably housebroken, your carpet may need a good steam cleaning.

Many people strongly strongly push cleaning up all evidence of past accidents. I am slower to suggest that. Dogs will return to the same spot if they can find it. When you see one sniffing the spot, that is your clue to run it out.