Black Moors white mouth

Question
QUESTION: I have a 10 gallon tank, i think i have a 10 gallon hang filtration, the tank has been running for a week, i have a black moor and just today i added a new fish i cant remember the name but i do remember it being a calico. And i have not yet done a water test. I have a question about my black moor its mouth has been turning white. It comes and goes and it doesn't appear to be cottony. I asked a petsmart employee but they hadn't heard of this happening. What could this be?

ANSWER: Hi Stephanie,

If your tank was not cycled before you added fish I would suggest that you return both fish asap as they will not make it from the cycling process.  Every new tank goes through this and many fish do not live through it and it's much more work to get the tank stable with fish present and if they die, as they likely will, you have to start all over and it gets very frustrating.  The white mouth on your moor is a sign of illness and is being caused by the poor water quality from the cycling process (test your tank asap for ammonia & nitrites & nitrates and you'll see what I mean).  Ammonia and nitrites should always be flat 0 and nitrates 5-20 ppm.  When a tank isn't cycled there isn't enough beneficial bacteria to break down the waste from the fish and they burn and suffocate to death from the ammonia spikes.

You can fishlessly cycle your tank with raw cocktail shrimp wrapped in clean pantyhose and let it rot in the running tank.  This will cycle it in a couple of weeks.  If you want to do it with fish you have to do daily 25% water changes, double dose the Seachem's Prime and it'll take 8-12 weeks or longer to complete and the fish still may not live.

A 10 gallon tank is not sufficient for one goldfish.  One goldfish requires 20 gallons for one with 10 gallons for each additional and double filtration.  So 2 would need a 30 gallon tank with 60 gallon filtration.  Anything less just cannot keep up with the enormous bioload these heavy bodied fish produce and you have constantly ill fish and constant ammonia and nitrites.

It sounds like mouth fungus, secondary to a bacterial infection and is being caused by the stress from the water quality.  It doesn't have to be fluffy if caused from bacteria.  It will be next to impossible to effectively treat this in a 10 gallon tank with another fish present, and in a cycling tank.  If you want to attempt it I would first either return the other fish, upgrade to a bigger tank and at least get a much larger, better filter.  Even a 30 gallon rubbermaid clear container with a hang on filter would be better at this point.  Try 1 tsp. per 5 gallons of aqaurium salt, recommended dosage of Melafix and a good Mardel branded anti-biotic for fungus.  Do not feed the fish for 4 days while medicating and do daily 25% water changes, double dosing the Seachem's Prime.  You should see a vast improvement in a week.

Petsmart wouldn't know what it is, they are rarely ever informed with good aquaria knowledge.  If they did they would have never sold 2 goldfish to a cycling, 10 gallon tank.  I know it's not your intention to harm these fish, you are relying on them for the answers but the truth is they just don't know or plain don't care.  I cannot tell you how many times I have cringed at what they have sold and told people while in the aisles buying supplies.  Mom and pop owned pet stores are the best.  They generally care about the well being of the fish, and not just the profit.

If you cannot upgrade to the larger tank return or re-home the goldfish, get a small heater and try a school of small tetras.  They would be perfect for the 10 gallon tank but whatever you do, complete your cycling so you don't end up with endless sick and dead fish and a ton of frustration.

Good luck : ) April M.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I ran the new tank for 3 days before i put any fish in it and i did condition the water. The tank i purchased was a Topfin goldfish starter kit. This makes me so angry that petsmarts employees have told me i could get away with putting a black moor in a 10 gal tank and saying it was fine to add another fish. i will look into buying a bigger tank and i will return the second fish, i really don't want to lose my Black Moor. I will do everything i can to make sure he makes it. Thank you for your advise.

ANSWER: Hi Stephanie,

I understand.  I was at a large chain pet store earlier today buying light bulbs and miscellaneous fish supplies.  I saw a lady hold up a bowl about the size of 2 pints.  She asked how many goldfish she could put in there and the girl working there told her 2.  I just shook my head.

3 days is not enough to cycle a tank.  It takes about 6 weeks and probably about 8-12 weeks with fish present but it can be done.  Just don't get frustrated.  I'll help you save the moor.

First things first.  Return the calico goldfish asap.  If you are extra diligent in your maintenance and upgrade your filtration you can attempt to make the 10 gallon work for your moor.  The TopFin filter isn't going to get the job done so I would invest in a 20 gallon Hagen Aqua Clear filter.  They are a little more expensive up front than other hang on filters but they never need those disposable cartridges so in the long run they are much cheaper and much, much more efficient.  

I would immediately test the water and see how bad the ammonia and nitrites are.  If the ammonia is over 1.0 ppm or nitrites over 2.0 ppm do an emergency 50% water change and double dose a product called Seachem's Prime.  Do not use any other kind of chemical except the Prime.  It will not only condition your water but it will detox the ammonia and nitrites.  Add the Melafix and aquarium salt as directed in the first answer along with your Mardel anti-biotics.  Change water 25% daily when medicating.  Do not feed when medicating to preserve water quality.  

When the medication is done change 25% of the water every other day.  Always double dosing the Prime in the new water and adding the salt to the new water.  Test your water every few days to see how the ammonia and nitrites are doing.  Feed every other day.

Once you get 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 5-20 ppm nitrates you are completely cycled.  I would then switch to 25% water changes and gravel vacuuming every two to three weeks.  Normally it's a month but in a 10 gallon I would step up the maintenance slightly to make it work.

Good luck : ) April M.

---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: I took back the calico today and while i was at petsmart i had them test my water. They said everything was in normal range except my ammonia level was in between 0.5 and 1.0 and they gave me Stability New tank stabilization system by Seachem will this be okay or should i take it back and get the prime? And i found a aquarium store near my school which i will be going to after school to upgrade my filter and look at bigger tanks.

Answer
Hi Stephanie,

You can use the Stability but in my opinion it does absolutely nothing as partial water changes are the ONLY way to remove ammonia and nitrite.  It's extrememly important that you follow the previous instructions to the tee so that the moor gets better.  You must have the Seachem's Prime.  This will not only condition the water but it will detox it from the ammonia and nitrites that is making your moor sick.  It is amply important that you double dose this while the ammonia and nitrites are present.  Stability won't do any of that.

I wouldn't rely on Petsmart's test results.  They use cheap, inaccurate strips.  You are going to need to test the tank water routinely anyway during cycling.  I would invest in the liquid drop test kit.  A $29 API Freshwater Master kit will last you longer than a year, even heavily used.

Again, do a one time emergency 50% water change and double dose a product called Seachem's Prime.  Do not use any other kind of chemical except the Prime.  It will not only condition your water but it will detox the ammonia and nitrites.  Add the Melafix and aquarium salt as directed in the first answer along with your Mardel anti-biotics.  Change water 25% daily when medicating.  Do not feed when medicating to preserve water quality.  You can feed after 4-5 days.

When the medication is done change 25% of the water every other day.  Always double dosing the Prime in the new water and adding the salt to the new water.  Test your water every few days to see how the ammonia and nitrites are doing.  Feed every other day.

Once you get 0 ammonia, 0 nitrites and 5-20 ppm nitrates you are completely cycled.  I would then switch to 25% water changes and gravel vacuuming every two to three weeks.  Normally it's a month but in a 10 gallon I would step up the maintenance slightly to make it work.

Good luck : ) April M.