Strong pitbull with Leash Aggression?

Question
I have a very strong 90 lb pitbull.  He is usually sweet and friendly.  I walk him at least twice a day.  If we don't see any other dogs he is fine.  (Other than my shih tzu). If he sees another dog he lunges and snarls.  Even with a head harness he can pull me.  He can buck out of all the ones I tried if close enough to another dog.  I have been knocked to the ground more than once.  I think he would kill our neighbor's dog if given the chance.  I am afraid to walk him.  He doesn't focus on me if he sees another dog.  He doesn't care if I have treats, clickers, or shock collars.  All he care about he that other dog.  What can I do?

Answer
Hi Jessica.  Leash frustration and aggression is a big problem for a lot of dogs.  Your problem is that your dog is very strong and could potentially hurt another dog or even hurt you when he's aggressing.  If it's necessary to walk him for exercise when there is the potential for other dogs to be out, you're going to need professional help.  If you're interested in this, let me know where you are and I can recommend someone.  This is a serious issue and needs more than an internet reply.  

If hiring a professional trainer isn't a possibility, then I'm going to recommend you visit this webpage to get started on educating yourself - http://ahimsadogtraining.com/blog/bat/  Purchase the 1.5 hour DVD to get more details than what you'll find on the website.  If you're successful with your pitty doing this on your own, you could end up being a great dog trainer.  That's how many of us got our start - dealing with our own problem dogs.  If you see that Grisha Stewart is coming to your area, book a seat at a seminar.  You can see it work in person.

The BAT technique is something you have to seen done rather than just trying to read about it.  Basically, it's allow the dog to make good choices (before he makes bad ones like lunging) and then creating a distance between the dog and the trigger - which is really what he's trying to do when he lunges and snarls.  All work is done below his trigger threshold, so you would begin at a distance where he can see, but not react, then retreat.  You don't need a clicker, you don't really need treats and you certainly don't need a shock collar.  Just you and the dog and a line of communication in which he can tell you that he needs to be further away from the other dog.  I've had great success with this technique and I know it works.

In the meantime, while you're learning about this, walk at times of day when you aren't likely to run into other dogs or take a path with less chance of running into other dogs.  If you do see another dog coming toward you, do whatever you have to do to create a greater distance - go to the other side of the street or do a u-turn in the other direction.  Teach your boy a cue that means that you'll be changing direction quickly.  Teach this skill when there are no distractions and practice frequently.  Make it a game so it will be fun for him to chase you in another direction.

Let me know if you have further questions.  Good luck!