Pet Information > ASK Experts > Dogs > Dog Breeds > Labrador Retrievers > yellow lab puppy

yellow lab puppy

20 9:46:42

Question
thanks for your response. a little surprised at your estimate for adult size. If an adult was to end up weighing 90lbs, by your estimate he would have to be a 14 week old puppy at 60lbs. How can this be? thanks.
-------------------------------------------
The text above is a follow-up to ...

-----Question-----
We have a yellow male puppy. He weighs 30lbs at 14 weeks. How big do you think he will get? not sure what average weight is for this breed at this age. And we're still struggling with the toilet training. We use a crate and let him out often, praise him when he does go outside and when we catch him in the act of going inside the house we reprimand him. Not sure what else we can do. Really trying hard.
-----Answer-----
I don't think he will be a big Lab, maybe 50-60 pounds.  You should be feeding a puppy chow now.  Switching to an adult chow for the larger breeds at 4- 6 months, slows growth and helps develop sturdier joints.

Your dog definitely should be narrower at the waist than the hips and chest.
You should be able to easily feel the ribs, but not see them.  Each dog is
different.  Standard recommendations are a good place to start, but each dog
must have its food adjusted to its individual needs. Here is a good illustrated guide, http://www.puppychow.com/products/popup_body_condition.aspx

The dry dog foods are actually better for the dogs.  It helps keep the teeth
clean, and exercises the jaws and teeth.  If you feed a complete dog chow, you
shouldn't need to give the dog anything else.  Various people foods may only
add more calories without providing proper nourishment.  Look at how many of
us are too fat too.  If you don't want to pay name brand prices look for
certification of passing the AAFCO tests.    Make any changes in diet slowly
over about a week.

The premium, concentrated foods give you the assurance of a brand name.  They
produce a smaller, firmer stool that is easier to clean up.  It is easier to
maintain weight on a finicky eater.  The lower cost foods may actually have
lower fat and be better for your dog.  Many dogs would enjoy eating the larger
portions you have to feed.

Sounds like you are already doing much of what I suggest for housebreaking.  Much of it depends on your attentiveness to him.  I have my computer desk set up where I can see the back door out of the corner of my eye.  I miss the puppy at the door less that way.  
Much of housebreaking is not training the puppy, but making it easier for your
puppy, you, and your carpet while its body to catches up to its instincts.  At
around 8 weeks when the puppy goes to its new home, the time from when it
realizes it has to go, and when it can't wait any longer is a matter of
seconds.  Only time will fix that.  You can hardly be expected to be attentive
enough to avoid all accidents  There is no sense punishing the puppy for your
inattention.  It is not fair to punish you either, but you still have to clean
it up if you didn't have the puppy outside in time.

Housebreaking starts before you get home with the new puppy. If you don't have
a crate, buy one. I prefer the more enclosed, den like plastic ones. Skip the
bedding.  At first it gets wet, and later it can be chewed into choking
hazards.  A wire rack in the bottom will help keep the puppy up out of
accidents at first. They are available with the crates, but a piece of closely
spaced wire closet shelving from a home supply place is cheaper. If you
already have a metal crate, covering it may help. Just make sure you use
something the puppy can't pull in and chew. Dogs that start out in crates as
little puppies, accept them very well.  Never leave an unattended puppy loose
in the house.  If nobody can watch it, put it in the crate.  I suggest letting
the dog have its crate all its life.

Choose a command and spot you want it to use. The less accessible to strays,
the less chance of serious disease.   If it is a female, choosing a
non grassy spot will avoid brown spots later. When you bring it home, take it
to the spot and give it the command in a firm, but friendly voice. Keep
repeating the command and let the puppy sniff around. If it does anything,
praise it. Really let it know what a good dog it is and how much you love it,
and maybe a treat.  Note, being out there not only means you can praise it,
but it also keeps it from being snatched by a hawk. If it doesn't go, take it
inside and give it a drink and any meals scheduled. A young puppy will need to
go out immediately afterward. Go to the spot and follow the above routine.
Praising it if it goes is extremely important. If it doesn't go, take it back
inside and put it in its crate and try again soon. Do not let it loose in the
house until it does go.

At first it is your responsibility to know and take the puppy out when it
needs to go. It needs to go out the first thing in the morning, after eating,
drinking, and sleeping. If it quits playing, and starts running around
sniffing, it is looking for a place to go. Take it out quickly. You will just
have to be what I call puppy broke until it is a little older.

By the time most dogs are about 3 months old, they have figured out that if
they go to the door and stand, you will let them out. The praise slowly shifts
to going to the door. Some people hang a bell there for the dog to paw. If
your dog doesn't figure this out, try praising it and putting it out if it
even gets near the door. A stern "Bad dog!" is all the punishment that is
effective, and only when you catch it in the act and are sure you didn't miss
it going to the door. Clean up accidents promptly. I mostly keep the little
puppies out of the carpeted rooms. Still I need the can of carpet foam
sometimes.  First blot up all the urine you can with a dry towel.  Keep moving
it and stepping on it until a fresh area stays dry.  A couple big putty knives
work well on bowel movements.  Just slide one under it while holding it with
the other.  This gets it up with a minimum of pushing it down into the carpet.
This works with even relatively soft ones, vomit, dirt from over turned house
plants, or anything else from solids to thick liquids.  Finish up with a good
shot of carpet foam.  Note, do not let the puppy lick up the carpet foam.
Once the dog is reliably housebroken, your carpet may need a good steam cleaning.

Many people strongly strongly push cleaning up all evidence of past accidents.  I am slower to suggest that.  Dogs will return to the same spot if they can find it.  When you see one sniffing the spot, that is your clue to run it out.  

Answer
As I look at that, I did a bad job converting 14 weeks to months.  That is barely over 3 months.  My Lab Holly was whelped 2 August, and was only 22 pounds at 14 weeks.  So he still has more time to grow.  Still don't think he should be a 90 pound Lab.  Of course many 90 pound Labs would live longer if they were 70-80 pound Labs.  Heed what I said on keeping him lean.