filter advice

Question
I have just aquired a used pentagon-shaped aquarium with a stand. I don't know it's exact capacity for certain, but using online calculators it seems to be about 44 gallons. I am completely new to this hobby...but I know I will need some kind of filtration system for the tank. I got a box of stuff with the tank, including an aquaclear 50 (402) power head. There is a plastic thing sitting in the bottom of the tank, I suppose this an undergravel filter; is this adequate by itself for a tank this size? Do I need to purchase a canister or some other filtration system for the tank, what is the power head used for, and what do I need to attach it? Sorry for the length of the message, but I have NO IDEA what I really need, and barely a clue on what to do with what I have. I will get anything necessary to set up a healthy tank, I just don't quite know what that is. Thanks in advance for your advice.

Alisan

Answer
Hi Alisan,
No worries! ;)

I really like to use hang on the back type Power filters for most of my aquariums. They are really effective at keeping the water clean and providing the most important functions an aquarium filter should perform and they are also very easy and simple to maintain.

Most brands of hang on the back type power filters are very good. Find one that is rated for your tank size and ideally a little bit higher. A little extra filtration power is great to have.

I tend to dislike undergravel filters because they aren't the best for fully stocked aquariums. They can't necessarily clear the water of particles and have a bad tendency to trap waste underneath the plate of the filter that has to be siphoned out to avoid a severe pollution problem. So I would try to avoid that hassle.

Canister filters are great for bigger aquariums from 40-55 gallons and up. But even then still, they aren't necessary and you can have a healthy aquarium with running one or two good power filters on a big tank alone.

The powerhead you have is very likely to be set down in one of the uplift tubes of the undergravel filter. This makes for quite powerful aeration and really boosts the undergravel filter which would normally be run by airstones bubbling up and therefore moving water with the rising bubbles. You can use the powerhead if you'd like- I've bought a sponge originally meant for a "sponge filter"

see here-

http://www.atisponge.com/Portals/0/Photos/Hydro-Sponge.jpg

And instead of the airstone, put the powerhead in the tube or sponge. The sponge encourages lots of "good" bacteria that eliminate fish wastes to grow on the porous material and the more water that is pulling through it, the better the bacteria can help keep the tank healthy. But again, its not ENTIRELY necessary.

I think I would get a hang on the back type power filter and make sure to have a quality tank heater (Visatherm is a trusted brand) and your basic equipment for a tropical aquarium is set.

You might already have these items but other necessary things to have for your aquarium are-

*Aquarium siphon hose (for water changes/gravel vacuuming)
*Thermometer
*5gal bucket for water changes (and reserved for fish use only)
*Water conditioner (like Prime, Amquel+, Stresscoat. ect...)
*Medium size fishnet (I like the 'brine shrimp' nets because the fabric is cloth like and much much gentler on the fishes skin/scales and fins)

Couple of other things that aren't essential but are good to have on hand just in case are-

*Ich medication (ich is a common aquarium parasite)
*Aquarium salt (also for treatment of certain illnesses)

Perhaps the most important aspect of aquarium keeping you must know especially if first starting out is "Cycling" or "Establishing" your aquarium.

Cycling or Establishing is where two types of special bacteria grow and colonize in your aquarium to get rid of waste the fish produce -- Ammonia. The first type of bacteria convert ammonia into "nitrite" which is still toxic. But later, the second type of bacteria develop to convert nitrite into harmless "Nitrate".

*You can easily test for all three levels. Ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates with simple test kits from your petstore or they will test your water for free.

They are not present when you first setup your tank and they need time to develop in your aquarium  --- around 6 weeks. And during that time, you must be careful not to stock your aquarium too soon with too many fish or the pollution level will overwhelm what little bacteria that have had a chance to grow and the fish will literally poison themselves. Stocking your aquarium gradually is the key.

After your aquarium is setup and the equipment is running smoothly. Start out with just about 4 reasonably hardy fish like Danios. Ideally you'd test your water for ammonia about every to every other day. Give the aquarium a week and check ammonia and nitrites. IF they are ZERO then you can add about 3-4 more small fish. This process is continued until the aquarium is fully stocked.

If there are ammonia and nitrites it'd be best if you waited another week instead of risking adding more fish and causing ammonia levels to skyrocket. Doing a 30-50% water change may also be necessary if the fish seem stressed (heavy breathing, clamped fins, listless  behavior) to lower the ammonia level. ~Always make sure to treat all new water with a water conditioner and make sure the temp is equal to or just a little bit warmer than your aquarium's.

Aquarium keeping is quite simple in most cases once you have the knowledge and get the hang of things.

I hope this helps and best of luck!
Karen~