Betta bowl livestock

Question
Hi Nicole,

I have a 1/2-3/4 gal goldfish bowl currently set up to house my 2 year old betta, single large snail and rapidly growing sword plant. My problem is overgrowth of algae which the snail valiantly attempt to keep under control but never quite succeeds. Currently change 40-50% of the water weekly.

Given the size of my fish bowl which is unheated and uncovered, as well as its current occupants, is it possible to successfully add a small algae eater? If so, what kind do you recommend?

In the future I plan to upgrade to a 10-20 gal tank with all the proper accouterments, however, am not quite ready for that yet and am seeking a biological algae control.

Thanks for your help,
Chris


Answer
Good morning Chris, thank you for your question.

Ah, brings me back to my 12 gallon Eclipse with an apple snail! He grew to be the size of a golf ball, and I do remember his muching on algae, padding around on his foot all over the glass. Do be careful if this bowl is kept uncovered, as snails have a tendency to go "mountain climbing" as one aquarist put it, who ended up having to repair his shell with super glue after his great fall.

I am glad to hear that an upgrade is in your future, and would highly recommend a 15 gallon long rather than a 10 gallon, as their wider surface area allows them to hold exactly double the livestock a 10 gallon holds. A 15 gallon also also affords much more stability for the same reasons of increased oxygen exchange versus a 10 gallon tank.

Now, to your answer! Pardon the digression on my part. The very best thing you could do would be to rehome the snail to its very own habitat, which could be as simple as a homemade screened-in rubbermaid container with the appropriate sandy or gravel based substrate, or as complex as this paludarium, which is actually housing dwarf Tanganyikan cichlids:

http://www.aquahobby.com/tanks/e_tank0403.php

The reasons being that even a well-fed snail is a risk to your Amazon sword, and also a large snail makes a substantial contribution to the bio-load in your bowl, which is actually the reason for your algae growth, along with the (likely intense) lighting aimed at your sword plant.

The algae eater I recommend to you is an otoclinus or two, here's a picture of an "oto cat" as they are called:
http://badmanstropicalfish.com/profiles/profile76.html

They like to be kept in groups, but I have kept a single oto in a 10 gallon tank for a few years without any problems. They would love a piece of real driftwood to graze on, so if you could find a small piece and integrate it into your bowl's decor, it would much benefit your otos digestive and psychological well-being. The pieces in local fish stores are often pre-weighted or fastened to a piece of slate.

Your oto (or otos) will graze during the day and night, a very unassuming and effective little algae eater that should not disturb your betta, or vice versa.

Be sure to pick out a robust specimen from your local fish store. Their bellies must not have a "sunken in" look, as this indicates starvation. If any of the fish in the tank appear sickly, floaty or wobbly, look for an oto in a different tank. Acclimation must be done carefully, as otos are sensitive to changes in water chemistry and temperature. Your water change regimen sounds excellent, and your plant will definitely help with nitrate reduction. I recommend drip acclimating your oto, here's how to do that:

http://www.thatpetplace.com/pet/AcclimationProcedures.web

I personally would modify the procedure and use a measuring cup instead of a bucket and use less water, which would cut the acclimation time to about half an hour.

Good luck Chris, feel free to write back anytime!
Nicole