Hibernation & Heat

Question
Hi Mark,

I just got an indoor 3 toed box turtle and understand that hibernation season is coming. Should I still use UVB lighting and a heat source while she's underground?

Second question: before hibernation, is it ok to use a 24 hour ceramic heat emitter and not use a basking lamp, or vise versa? Or should I have both?

Third: If my house never goes below 70 degrees, is a night time heat source necessary in general?   

Thank you,
Amber

Answer
Lets back up a bit...

1. Why do you want to hibernate the turtle? Most keepers only do this for breeding purposes. Most keepers will not hibernate turtles otherwise since it is a rather tricky thing to do, and even experienced keepers will loose some.

2. Winter care options. In winter, box tutles will respond to the changes in light cycles and qualities and other environmental cues to signal a change in their metabolism.

We can trick them into NOT going into hibernation mode by doing a 'super summer' bit- use good lighting* to provide a nice long, bright day. Keep the temsp solid (and 70 during the day is pretty decent, as long as it does not dip too low at night)

True hibernation requires a specific range of temps (close to 42 degres), specific humidity, and absolute protection from water, freezing, pests, etc. 'False' hibernation will happen if the turtle THINKS it should be hibernating but does not cool off enough. It will stop eating and drinking well, begin to get dehydrated and malnourished, and generally grow inactive and ill.



*- lighting- your otehr questions touch on good lighting/heating.

Ideally, we want to a.) simulate a natural day, and b.) provide a variety of heat options.

One way to do this is with several lights and timers. Set them up something like this (adjusting the times for your needs):
- 7:00- fluorescent light(s) come on. This provides a soft, low-intensity light simulating dawn.
- 9:00- higher intensity incandescent bulb(s) come on. This adds brightness, combines with the earlier light to more fully similate the full range of colors of sunlihgt, and adds a little warmth.
- 11:00- Infrared heat lamp (or a combination of ceramic emitter and additional light, such as a grow light) comes on for noon-time sun and heat.
- 12:00- UVB or blacklight bulb kicks on for the last bit of light energy and a bit more warmth. Aim it at a place other than the IR or ceramic bulb points.
- 1:00- Turn off UV
- 4:00- Turn off IR
- 6:00- turn off incandescent
- 7:00- turn off fluorescent

The IR spots and the UBV provide some basking areas, but beyond this you'll also need to consider:

1. Overall tank temps. If the temps are too low, add other heating. If the overall temp is too low, add a big pad heater or something. Make sure there is always a cooler area of the tank.

2. Boxies are hiders. Make sure there are places to hide, or at least get deep shade.

3. Maximize basking by putting a heavy ceramic tile in the place the IR lamp shines. Turtles love to rest on warmed rocks!

4. Humidity. Boxies, especially Three-toed, need some humidity in the air, but they also need lots of fresh air. This is not easy to balance, but live plants, small 'ponds', etc. help, Make sur ethe top is uncovered and there is plenty of good air. Anyu stuffiness can cause pneumonia or other illnesses.

There is a TON of stuff on-line about boxies. My first recommendation is always www.tortoise.org!