Some chasing, nudging and sneezing going on. :)

Question
QUESTION: Hello!  Since purchasing our mini rex bunnies, I have spent a lot of time on this site reading the experiences of others and the advice given.  I'd like to thank you in advance for your time.  I believe that our mini rexes have adapted well to their new home.  Originally, we purchased three but sadly, one passed away after one week.  We think she may have been ill when we purchased her.

All buns are female, and are doing fantastic.  They run to the door of the cage when they see us,  and will jump out onto our hands or into our laps when we open the door.  They are just so much joy to be around, even just looking at them.  I believe they know me now as they are very calm when I pick them up (even if my other hand is not under their bottom), and they nudge, lick, and even let me give little kisses by their eyes.

So, that said, here are a few questions, please.  Since our little one died, I am now paranoid of every squeak and mannerism, lol.  Also, for the record, these buns were both born on the same day, March 1, 2007.

*Chasing.  Recently, the larger of the two girl buns is chasing the smaller one around the cage.  I have noticed no fur tufts, no loss of appetite or drinking, nothing.  Is this something to be worried about?  When I walk into the room, it stops, but the little bun is crouched down on the floor of the cage, breathing heavily.  Should I be doing something or worried about this?

*Sneezing.  This week, I have noticed that the smaller bun has been sneezing, oh, about ten times a day, that I am home to hear.  There is NO discharge from the nose, no yucky eyes, nothing.  Something to worry about?

*Biting.  Our little bun has taken to "biting" when we are holding her.  I hesitate to say biting because it does not hurt.  But she applies her teeth.  Normal?  Or is she trying to tell me that I'm bugging her?!

*Spay/Neutering.  I've read a ton of responses, and I see that the time to do this is at four months old.  Is this something that *has* to be done?  If so, do we do them both at the same time and let them recover together?

Thanks in advance for your time on these questions.  I truly appreciate it!  

Sincerely,
Stephanie

*
ANSWER: Hi Stephanie

The first thing you should do if they all came from the same breeder or source is take them in for an exam by a qualified rabbit veterinarian.  If one died and it had a contagious disease the others may have it also but may not be showing symptoms yet.

Chasing can lead to all out fights and is really quite dangerous.  They sound like they are getting to the age where they need to be spayed.  Females are notorious for becoming over hormonal and having difficulty living with other doe's.  However spaying them usually fixes this problem.  Just today I was out doing rounds and checking buns and I found a male/female pair of mini rex that were only 10 weeks old.  The male was mounting the doe and I was really surprised.  One may reach sexual maturity faster than the other.  If they are circling or chasing I wouldn't keep them together, instead I would let them have designated play time in a neutral territory until you can have the surgery and then you can help them to develop a permanent bond.  

As for sneezing rabbits do sneeze.  They can be allergic to woodchips, particles in the air etc.  However since you lost one bun already it makes me wonder if there might be a contagious disease such as snuffles and it might now just be developing.  Rabbits can also be treated for allergies and your vet can tell you the exact doses of what medications can be used to help the little one out.

Biting:  Rabbits bite for a few reasons.  They are mad, they want to be put down, they are hungry, or if they are nipping through your clothes they may want to get to what is underneath to see if it is interesting.  Biting is very common in young rabbits.  One thing you can do is make a shriek everytime it bites you and it will know that it hurts you.  

I am giving you a site that I love.  I don't know if you have read it yet but it will help you to tell what your bunnies are trying to tell you.

http://www.cramptonarts.com/rabbits/r_language.html

http://www.muridae.com/rabbits/rabbittalk.html

Also remember that young rabbits (under 1 year old) are like typical bratty teenagers.  They tend to be defiant but much of this will be fixed once you get them spayed.

If I missed anything or you have anymore questions please let me know.

Good luck

Pam



---------- FOLLOW-UP ----------

QUESTION: Thanks for the reply, Pam!

A few more questions, and I hope you do not mind. :)

They are only about seven weeks old.  Is that not too early to  spay them?  Also, about the vet.  The person that I bought the buns from said not to take them to a regular vet as they are an exotic animal and they will tack on a charge just to "walk in the door."  Now, money is not the issue, but is there any merit as to what she is saying?

Along the same lines, once they are spayed, that will eliminate the chasing?  After I sent my original question, it happened again, this time with the little one losing a tuft of hair. :(

The two that are left are not showing any signs of anything.  Of course, I am not a vet nor do I play one on tv, but the bun that died was not very playful, we thought she was kind of "lazy," and she would just sit on our laps and not explore.  The other two are polar opposites.  The only thing that concerned me was the sneezing, and maybe that comes from reading *too* much stuff, lol.

I want to do my best by these beautiful girls, and I thank you again for your time and your response.

Stephanie

Answer
Awww Stephanie

You are probably right the other one may have died from many various things that can go wrong when little kits are taken away from their mother's to early.  For some reason they have a tendency not to acquire the proper immune system when they are weaned to early.  I know in New York state it is illegal to sell a rabbit that is under 8 weeks old for that very reason.

They are definitely way to young to be spayed.  They need to be at least late 3 to 4 months.  Your friend is right in some ways.  They need to be seen by exotic pet vets and they do usually charge more but if a regular vet claims to treat exotic animals than the prices should be the same for all animals for the general wellness check-up.  For example our clinic does not see anything but exotic pets except under extreme emergency (since we are open 24 hours).  We charge a basic fee of $46 for any animal that walks in the door to be seen.  However exotic animals often need to have blood tests, cultures and other types of procedures that say a cat or dog wouldn't.  Now my dogs vet charges $25 for a wellness check up (yearly exam) or whatever but it is rare that my dog needs to have blood tests or other exams.  It hasn't been until recent years that vet hospitals or docs have really got into treating these types of animals.  They are required to keep different medications on hands, more lab equipment etc.  The true exotic pet vet will also have gone to continuing medical education to specifically treat small and exotic animals.  Regular CME is important for all vets but with the increasing number of people keeping exotic pets it seems that the exotics are constantly taking classes.  I guess this helps pay for some of that.  In either case I would rather have my rabbit, iguana, rat, gerbil, turtle.. whatever be seen by someone that has a clue.  Like you I would rather pay the price to make sure it is ok.  So when you talk to your regular vet ask them straight up if they treat exotic animals.  If they do then great but you obviously read a lot so keep an eye out for signs that they may not be up-to-date on their CME.  

After they are spayed you will probably have to re-bond them.  There are tons of articles on bonding and so many different view points.  In my opinion I would still let them have play time together so that they know each other.  You will have to supervise them and if they start to circle or chase and it looks like a fight is going to happen take a small water bottle and spray them both in the face with a bit of water.  It won't hurt them but they will generally stop and take a face washing session.  I would also keep them separated for their own safety and make the play sessions in a neutral territory where neither of them lives and keep a close eye on them.  Mounting is a natural occurrence and shouldn't be stopped this helps them to determine who is the most dominant.  

As for sneezes I would be concerned also.  It very well could be allergies or just irritants but it is important to make sure it is not snuffles.  Often times rabbits in the beginning stages of snuffles won't have purulent discharge or runny eyes.  It is highly contagious though and if that is what it is, then a simple culture would be able to tell you.  

If the person you bought them from was a breeder chances are that they wouldn't recommend a vet in any case.  Most long time breeders know how to treat their own animals and recognize the signs of illnesses very easily.  There are a few breeders that may take their animals to a vet if they were very expensive but honestly most would cull them immediately to prevent the spread of disease.  I treat all of my own animals and breeder's have access to penicillin and ivermectin and other medications.  Usually they will give it a try and if it doesn't work they will consider the rabbit expendable.  If it was a pet store I don't even want to go there.  Most pet stores know very little about the care of rabbits.

If they were my rabbits I would first separate them but keep their cages close enough that they can see each other and smell each other.  That will make it easier to completely bond them after they are spayed.  I would allow them play time together while providing close supervision.  I would take the sneezing girl to the doctor for a culture and general check up.  Then I would wait until they are old enough to have the spay surgery and have them both done at the same time.  After they were healed I would go through the complete bonding process starting from the very beginning.

When the time comes if you need help with bonding please let me know and in the meantime if you have anymore questions please let me know.  Like I said I don't know everything but I have learned a lot over the years and have been pretty successful.

Also keep in mind that no matter what you do sometimes rabbits just won't bond for whatever reason.  It is rare and with a lot of work it can usually be done but a doe vs doe relationship is always the most difficult.

Thanks again and I hope I helped you to answer your questions.

Pam