Question
Broken Arm
Dear Mrs/Ms Gwerder,
After reading some of the answers you have given to other worried iguana owners i am definately impressed. I am glad atleast someone is willing to help. My boyfriend has had a iguana for the past five months, and one day he showed me that Ziggys ( iguanas name) right front leg was broken. Now it appears to be that under his elbow his bone has broken and is sticking out like in a v, and even though he still walks on his arm, he is folding his "hand" under, like walking on the top of it. I am definately worried that if i dont do something this will become a permanent habbit. I wondered what the cause of the broken arm is and i think the reason is because Ziggy was in an aquarium with no type of tree bark or anything to climb and exercise on, also he wasent given any repti calcium. Now he seems to not have much of an appetite and is never active when i take him out, he just lays there and sleeps all the time. What does this mean? Now i have taken Ziggy and he has calcium and plenty of climbing room and i feed him cucumbers and carrots because it seems to be the only thing he likes. Is that healty? Please what do i need to do about his arm? The vet is not an option right now. I am so worried!
Answer
My top recommended lam
Megan,
Firstly, thank you for the compliment. I take pride in my work and I truly try my best to help because iguanas are my passion.
Anyhow, here are my thoughts in a nutshell:
Ok, just from knowing this iguana is at least 5 months old, and knowing it was at least another 6 weeks old when it was shipped to the pet store from a breeding farm somewhere in Central America, we know this iguana is about 6 months old at least.
What I am getting at is this: I AM ABSOLUTELY SHOCKED BY HOW SMALL AND UNDERDEVELOPED ZIGGY IS FOR HIS AGE.
At 6 months, an iguana should be MUCH bigger than that.
The problems with Ziggy's health and development are all directly resulting from improper husbandry (captive environment).
A healthy iguana needs to have 3 things in perfect balance at all times
(I put these in order of importance, but they are all interrelated, so do not discount one over another)
1- Lighting
2- Diet
3- Temperatures/Heating
If these three things are out of whack, and usually, when an iguana is so underdeveloped like Ziggy and already has broken bones, I am going to conclude that ALL THREE of those areas are out of whack.
When Lighting, Diet and Temperatures are not 100% properly handled, the iguana can and will develop Metabolic Bone Disease, which is an inability for the iguana to digest calcium and the body extracts calcium from the bones to keep healthy levels in the blood, so the bones are left brittle and very easily breakable.
I am going to say that this iguana appears to have a severe case of Metabolic Bone Disease.
Metabolic Bone Disease is 100% the result of a poor captive environment. This condition can be reversed and the iguana can become healthy again, but the disfigurements that resulted from the disease will always remain. It is a very good possibility that arm will never go back the way it was. The only way at this point would be if you had it set in a cast professionally, and you said that wasn't an option. The bone will heal on its own in 4-6 weeks, but it will remain that way because it will heal that way.
Now, the cause of the broken arm could be anything as simple as climbing and jumping being so calcium deficient, bones break like glass in iguanas with severe MBD.
Now, He doesn't have much of an appetite and seems lethargic because 1- he is in pain, no doubt from the injury
2- he isn't getting the proper nutrients from his diet and has no energy
You NEED to do the following:
This is SUPER important: I would replace the lighting in the tank immediately. UVB is the single-most important light source for an iguana in captivity. Without UVB, iguanas cannot produce a vitamin that allows them to digest calcium. They rely on the UVB rays for their health. Most typical reptile basking bulbs DO NOT contain UVB, but rather UVA. UVA is good for heat and is said to improve psychological function in reptiles, but it cannot be used as a stand-alone UV source.
You need to specifically seek out a UVB bulb or go with one of the more expensive COMBO bulbs that contain both.
Suggestions: Exo Terra "Solar Glo" Sun Simulating Lamp in either 125w or 160w. It is formulated specifically to treat and prevent metabolic bone disease in reptiles. This is my bulb of choice. It is rather expensive, but it is absolutely crucial, in my opinion.
Another choice would be Zoo Med "Powersun" which is very similar to the bulb I described above but more expensive.
Finally, you could have 2 separate bulbs, a UVA basking lamp and a UVB bulb. You would probably want to select a 5.0 strength.
Bulbs are supposed to be replaced every 6 months or they become ineffective, even if they still work.
KEEP IN MIND: Calcium supplements are a good treatment, but like I said, it doesn't matter how much calcium you give an iguana if it does not have the UVB to stimulate the absorption.
YOU NEED TO ADDRESS LIGHTING IMMEDIATELY.
3) DIET DIET DIET DIET!
This is so SUPER important to because you need a calcium-rich diet to go with that UVB rays.
Good Foods: COLLARD GREENS, MUSTARD GREENS, ORANGE SQUASH, AVACADO, TURNIP GREENS, DANDELION GREENS, ESCAROLE, GREEN BEANS, ALFALFA, SWEET PEAS, PARSNIPS and 10-15% FRUITS SUCH AS BANANA, MANGO, PAPAYA, ETC. Mist the food with water for hydration.
BAD FOODS! NEVER USE THE FOLLOWING: Lettuces (even romaine), Broccoli, Animal protein of any sort (meats, cheeses), Spinach, Excessive amounts of Kale, carrots, cauliflower or excessive amounts of commercialized iguana pellets (for they tend to be over-fortified and hard on the kidneys).
4) Finally, you need to be maintaining a temperature gradient in your tank with a warm side of 95 degrees or so and a cooler side of 80-85 degrees. Provide a water basin big enough for the iguana to comfortably sit in.
- The temperatures are also important for digestion because iguanas need roughly 87 degrees internal body temperature to digest properly.
- The UV lights need to be on 10-12 hours every day.
PLEASE TAKE MY SUGGESTIONS. I have cared for and rehabilitated dozens of calcium-deficient iguanas and if you follow these guidelines, you generally cannot go wrong.
Please let me know of any more questions/concerns:
I will post a picture of the light bulb I recommend:
Please let me know if you have any further questions:
Finally, limit him from doing any further climbing and minimize handling him while he rehabilitates. This could realistically take 6 months for him to fully restore healthy calcium levels.
Please let me know of any more questions/concerns:
Sincerely,
Sara J Gwerder
President
Raptor Rescue Iguana Sanctuary
Shreveport, LA
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