Why Tabby Prefers the Bed to the Box

The majority of calls I receive from cat owners have to do with
some aspect of litter box avoidance. The cat is either
urinating, defecating, or even spraying everywhere but the
litter box. Some cats seem to use the box part of the rime and
use other places to eliminate also. What to do?

There are many subtle variations on why Tabby may eliminate on
your rugs or furniture, but the litter box aversion can often be
traced to one or a combination of the following reasons: The cat
is physically ill; The cat is unhappy with something about the
litterbox itself; The cat is upset about something in his daily
routine; or The cat is marking due to some change, threat, or
intrusion on his territory.

For whatever reason or reasons the problem started, once
accident out of the box can trigger a litterbox problem and
quickly become a habit. Today, I would like to address some
common reasons a cat will not use a litterbox simply because the
avoidance had to do with the litterbox itself.

Always remember to check with your veterinarian when your cat is
exhibiting any new or unusual behavior. The misbehavior can be a
cry for help and some illnesses are fatal if not diagnosed
quickly. When a cat does not use his litterbox, he could have a
urinary tract infection or blockage, parasites, impacted anal
glands or even arthritis so painful the cat has trouble even
getting into the box. Cats often associate painful elimination
with the litterbox and will either seek cool (sinks, bathtubs,
countertops, etc) or soft (beds, rugs, laundry baskets, etc)
places for a litterbox.

Since cats are fastidiously clean, by not using the litterbox,
they get their owner’s attention and an aware owner will take
the cat to the vet immediately. When Tabby has been cleared
medically, go through the following checklist to make the sure
the litterbox is to Tabby’s liking.

Is the box clean enough for your cat? I am astounded at the
number of owners who let their cat boxes go unchanged for more
than a week! It is amazing to hear owners say “The box smelled
so bad I changed it. I couldn’t stand the smell!” If you think
you couldn’t stand the smell, you should try being your cat
using that box!

Cats have a sense of smell that is phenomenal and a box that
hasn’t been changed in a week would be akin to our using a
toilet that hasn’t been flushed in four weeks! Keep that box
clean, owners! Some cats are more tolerant than others, but even
tolerant cats will once day say, “No more! I will not use that
dirty box!” When a cat uses a rug, bed, or couch, it is usually
cleaned and sponged immediately. Wouldn’t you use a place that
is consistently clean versus one that is consistently dirty and
smelly?

When you clean the box, scrub the box with hot water and dish
soap. Rinse well, wipe dry and fill with clean litter. Do not
use harsh cleaning products (pine-scented, ammonia-based or
bleach-type cleaners) as they leave a residual odor that only
the cat’s keen sense can detect.

What you put in the box can contribute to the problem:

>Some cats will not use any litter with deodorants as cats
generally do not like strong odors.

>Liners can sometimes frustrate a cat when the cat is constantly
catching his claws in the liner as he digs.

>If the box does not contain enough litter, the cat cannot
adequately cover his elimination. Also, digging is very
reassuring to cats, so be sure to have enough litter – at least
4 inches.

>May cats will refuse to use a hooded box. The main reason is
they are trapped in the box with the smell. Also, many cats like
the freedom of moving around in their box and some cats are too
big to do this when the box is covered.

>Location of the box: Be sure your cat can always get to the box
easily. If you keep your box in a closet, be sure the door is
always open. Also, do not place the box in an area which is in
the midst of lots of action or out in the open. Cats prefer
private, quiet places to use their litterboxes.

>Be sure that you have enough litterboxes for the number of cats
you own. The rule of thumb is one box for each cat, plus one
extra. If your cat is indoor/outdoor or if you live in a studio
apartment, the formula does not hold true. But, for indoor only
cats or homes with more than two rooms, this is the ideal number
of boxes. The more litterboxes, the more flexibility and
accessibility for the cat and the less likely a problem will
begin.

>The new clumping litter leaves little room for the cat to
eliminate at the end of the day. The clumps add up to obstacles
for the cat, so be sure those clumps are cleaned every single
day. If you go away for the night and the cat only has one box
full of clumps, he may seek an easier place to eliminate rather
than play “push the boulders.” Buy new boxes for your cat every
year to prevent even subtle odor retention. Put the new boxes
beside or near the old ones and use the same brands of litter
for both. Gradually start taking the old box out a little bit at
a time until your cat seems to be using the new box too. Then
take the old box out of the room until your cat is pleased with
and using the new box all the time. Then take away the old box
all together. The process should take about four to seven days.

The above is general veterinary information. Do not begin
any course of treatment without consulting your regular
veterinarian. All animals should be examined at least once every
12 months.