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From the moment you navigate your hire car into Rocha Brava’s peaceful semi-pedestrianised streets - taking in the terraced coffee shop and immaculately maintained gardens; inhaling the floral-scented air and absorbing the muted sounds of children playing by distant pool sides � you feel your post-flight fatigue literally melting away. And as the batteries begin to recharge in earnest, you know: you’ll be in no hurry to return home.
To my mind, Rocha Brava is the very essence of a �holiday destination’, providing all the elements you need to holiday your way - in congenial surroundings, yet just a stone’s throw from all essential amenities (not to mention, a raft of non-essential indulgences). A golden sandy beach lies within easy walking distance � as do a choice of pools, tennis courts, a fitness centre, boules courts and barbecue areas. Plus, importantly, a selection of quiet bars, cafes, shops and highly regarded restaurants � many offering superb fresh food at affordable prices.
There’s culture too. And history: the region’s many menhirs (standing stones) are of Neolithic origin, dating back to around 5000 BC. And, of course, The Algarve’s former Governors include no less a figure than Henry The Navigator - royal prince, soldier, and �land-borne explorer’, whose patronage of all things maritime helped to transform Portugal into a major sea power, in the 14th century and beyond.
For the most part however it is the combination of tranquillity and climate that enthrals, keeping holidaymakers of all ages coming back for more - year after year after year.
Undisturbed
Developed by Trafalgar House around 20 years ago, Rocha Brava’s attractive villas and apartments are constructed in typical Algarve style and feature the usual accoutrements � fully fitted kitchens, TV, DVD and the like � as well as shaded balconies (or terraces) overlooking the attractive shrubberies, well-kept lawns and footpaths that crisscross the site.
In all, HPB owns 48 properties here, responsibility for which rests with longstanding manager John Greenhill, whose office is to be found within the Bond’s exclusive PIN coded clubhouse.
Within the clubhouse and adjacent grounds, Bondholders (investors in the Holiday Property Bond) and their families are able to take advantage of a games room, DVD and book library, together with a lounge, kitchen, showers and luggage store (all of which are extremely handy for holidaymakers who either arrive early or who have a later flight). The area is also home to one of the Bond’s two dedicated swimming pools (which is covered and heated between October and June), a boules court, children’s play equipment and a barbecue area (where John plays �mein host’ at the weekly �barbie’).
Though the site itself offers numerous quiet corners in which to soak up the sun in relative privacy, it’s the beaches for which the region is renowned. And rightly so: there are so many to choose from � the majority of which are clean and relatively undisturbed; safe for all but the youngest members of the family: generally calm, shelving gently into the azure depths.
Others � as recent, tragic experience has shown � though beautiful, are suitable only for surfers and more accomplished swimmers. So be careful � and heed the signs.
Go west!
Centianes in particular is a delight, and falls squarely into the former �safe, peaceful’ category. And the good news is: it’s just a ten-minute walk from Rocha Brava.
Though the shore itself is � it has to be said - a long way down (via 100 or more steps, cut into the steep cliff side), the exercise provides the best possible excuse to stop, en route, for coffee and ice cream at one of the two beach bars.
Other highly recommended beaches are just a 30-minute or so drive away. Though most are accessible via similarly steep steps, Long Beach is an exception - a sandy flat beach at road level, which leads into Armao de Pra in one direction and the Gal beach, with its selection of bars and cafes, in the other.
In John Greenhill’s view, however, the finest coastal stretches lie to the west. Particularly recommended are two popular surfing beaches, Praia da Bordeira and Praia do Amado - both of which contrast golden sands with the most dramatic surf. (Hardy souls wishing to �shoot a few tubes’ will be pleased to learn that Praia do Amado has a surf shop and school, offering boards for hire.)
Then there’s Praia do Zavial which provides welcome shelter from the fierce winds that invariably buffet the shoreline. Time spent here seems literally to sail by � a good book all that’s needed to punctuate a revivifying day soaking up the glorious Portuguese sun.
Well, that � and the prospect of some of the finest seafood in Europe.
Unpretentious
The area has a host of restaurants to choose from, at a range of prices. And many fine eateries are within walking distance of Rocha Brava. On the doorstep, the onsite restaurant of O Farol is good, though a little pricey (and the opening hours are somewhat restrictive).
Nearby Julio’s on the other hand is set back from the main road, and offers comfortable seating both inside and out. The food, a mix of international cuisine and Portuguese specialities, is superb and realistically priced; the service friendly without being obsequious.
In particular, the establishment serves a mouth watering �Cataplana’ � the local speciality, which comprises a stew of fish or meat prepared in the traditional clamshell shaped copper pot from which the dish derives its name.
And of course no stay in Portugal would be complete without at least one chicken piri piri. (Indeed, try it early in your holiday and I guarantee it won’t be your last.) In line with John’s recommendation, we chose to sample this Portuguese classic at A Rampa- a cheap and cheerful caf setting along the road from Monchique, on our way to the region’s highest point, Foia.
Here the rustic unpretentious ambiance - paper table cloths dancing in the wind; resident Retriever snoring contentedly in the afternoon sun - belie the spicy and delicious fare, the sweeping valleys providing an idyllic backdrop.
Foia, incidentally, offers spectacular views both to the west coast, and to the south. But the circuitous mountain route is not for the faint-hearted � comprising as it does a narrow cliff-side road with vertiginous drops to the terraces far below.
It is, however, well worth the effort.
To round off your day, be sure to stop off at Caldas, which is renowned for its warm, therapeutic (if somewhat sulphurous) spring water, a small plastic cup of which can be purchased for 10 cntimos. (It’s quite foul - but supposedly very good for you.)
In Caldas’ pretty tree lined square, you’ll find restaurants and a couple of shops, an art gallery and bar.
If you’ve any energy left, the footpath up into the hills � though steep � is quite delightful, lined as it is with a variety of shrubs and flowers and of course the bubbling stream.
Car hire
Although there are regular coach excursions from Rocha Brava, hiring a car provides flexibility -enabling you to take things at your own pace: lingering at spots of particular personal interest, and quickly passing by those of lesser attraction.
And driving in The Algarve is a breeze: the highways and byways alike are well maintained (well, relatively) and � by UK standards - quiet.
Accordingly John has negotiated special terms with a local hire company, enabling Bondholders to have a car delivered to the site midway through their stay, which they may also return to the airport on their journey home, so saving on the return taxi transfer fee.
Flora and fauna
The Algarve is also a pleasure to explore on foot, more popular routes taking in the coastal paths to Sagres � with its highly regarded harbour side restaurants - the Monchique hills, the National Forest, the historical town of Lagos, and the Cape St. Vincent Natural Park (which remains undeveloped, maintaining the unique flora and fauna of the region).
Closer to home, there are pleasant walks from Rocha Brava itself. For instance, to Benagil, via the Praia Do Carvalho (which takes approximately two and a half hours at a leisurely pace). And across the cliffs to the close-by seaside town of Carvoeiro.
The latter route � which takes approximately an hour and a quarter - offers attractive scenery, and provides a pleasing alternative to the more direct three-mile roadside path.
The walk culminates in the heart of the bustling little coastal community, with its selection of bars, restaurants, shops and regular market.
Dolphin watching
Portuguese trains are, for the most part, regular and reliable: the (Alfa Pendular) fast train will propel you to the capital, Lisbon, in approximately two and a half hours. Prices are reasonable too: a first class return to the historic city costs around �' 50.
The carriages are air conditioned and offer a bar service with light snacks, TV/video and spacious seating. What better way to experience to the full the attractive hinterland views � a luxury which is seldom permitted to �designated drivers’?
Lagos, too, is a short hop away by train, and well worth a visit. Here you may enjoy a constitutional along the promenade and around the marina, followed by a leisurely lunch.
While you’re there, be sure to visit the gold leafed Chapel and museum. Consider, also, taking the two-hour boat trip on The Bom Dia - which sails daily from Lagos to Ponta da Piedade, taking in the caves and wonderful rock formations along the coast.
Dolphin watching is also available here. Algarve Dolphins’ guides � many of whom are highly trained marine biologists - use new, specially designed RIBs (Rigid Inflatable Boats) to propel holidaymakers across the ocean in search of these most sociable and intelligent creatures.
Their trips depart hourly from Marina de Lagos, and usually last around 90 minutes.
Prices start from �' 30 per person and - in the unlikely event that no dolphins are spotted � the company guarantees a second trip at no charge.
Moorish heritage
From boats to buses. There are regular services from Rocha Brava. In particular, John recommends a day out to Silves.
The journey takes around 40 minutes (with a change at Lagao) and drops you in the heart of the old Moorish capital, where you’ll find an impressive castle commanding extraordinary views of the surrounding countryside.
There is also an archaeological museum, a fish, fruit and vegetable market every morning (except Sundays) and several restaurants and cafs in the town centre.
Silves is also home to the Fabrica do Ingls which � once a cork factory � is now a popular tourist centre featuring, amongst other things, a cork museum, restaurants and, in the summer months, nightly shows in the open air stage area.
Tenuous
The west coast offers more than sand and surf alone. At Cape St Vincent, Europe’s most south westerly point, you will find the fortress housing the famous �wind rose’ stone compass which, it is believed, was designed by Henry the Navigator.
This wild and windswept spot resonates with atmosphere. Yet, incredibly, it has none of the trappings of a tourist hub. The gift shop, for example, has long since closed down � leading one to question whether the Algarve people really make the very best of their heritage. (Most entrepreneurial are the handful of market traders � selling textiles, gifts and local produce - that you’ll find lining the road to the car park and entrance.)
Over the last decade or so the fortress has attracted little or no financial support, and has been aided, in its battle against the elements, only by the kind of second rate paint job that one might more readily associate with an unloved municipal outbuilding.
Nonetheless, having passed through the old ruin, on your way to the far-most lighthouse, you quickly cast off that ghastly visage, as you pick your way through the scrub-grass paths, trying desperately to be heard over gale force winds as you marvel at the anglers perched precariously on the cliff side, a tenuous toehold separating them from the snapping surf that crashes a hundred or more boulder strewn feet below.
Gypsy market
In nearby Loul, Saturday is market day. Then, the fruit and vegetable market swells to twice its normal size, as the local farmers and producers set up shop outside the main market building. Here you’ll find sides of smoked ham, home-made cheeses, sausages, fresh herbs, chickens, rabbits and other local fare.
By contrast, at the western end of the town, the weekly gipsy market features a mix of local handicrafts � including baskets, pottery, plants and linen - as well as, inevitably Levis, DVDs and video games (all of questionable provenance).
Olho, too, offers a superb covered market, as well as interesting shops in the pedestrianised area behind the port.
Time permitting, it’s worth continuing on from Olho to St Luzia, from where you may take a small open air train to Ilha de Tavira (Tavira Island), which is home to an attractive beach and medieval castle (the latter now classified as a National Monument).
Also popular are the regular excursions to Sir Cliff Richard's winery - the Adega do Cantor � which is located at the Quinta do Miradouro. Here, a pre-booked tour and wine tasting costs just �'7.50 per person.
In John’s view, however, there are superior examples of the vintner’s art to be had, courtesy of the region’s Australian run vineyards.
Although Portugal is most famous for the fortified wine that bears its name, there are a range of reds and whites to meet the most discerning palate.
Water parks
If you’ve never holidayed at The Algarve before you may � by now - have begun questioning any preconceived notions you may have held about the region, not least about its reputation for overt commercialism.
You’ll probably also wonder how we’ve gotten this far without giving at least a nod to the primary source of that reputation: Albufeira. The fact is, however, that this one-time tourist centre isn’t what it used to be. It’s pleasant enough, if a little soulless; where once it was clearly vibrant it has become somewhat � down at heel.
Time was, crowds of locals and holidaymakers alike would assemble by the quayside as the fishing fleet returned home to enjoy the catch of the day - on the so-called Strip’s waterfront tables - fresh from the incoming boats. No more. The waterfront vendors have long since closed down, victims of ill-conceived �health and safety’ legislation.
There are shops of course � and restaurants - which are fine. But with a finite window of holiday opportunity at your disposal there are better places to occupy your time. Not least, nearby Zoomarine, which provides a fun and informative day-out, allowing the whole family to experience (and even interact with) dolphins, seals and turtles � as well as sharks, crocodiles, alligators and tropical fish - in a reasonable facsimile of their native environment.
The park � whose stated aim is to �promote environmental knowledge, preservation and education in a fun and exciting way’ - is also home to a variety of birds of prey, and myriad animals and exhibits.
An enthralling falconry demonstration is held daily, as is an enchanting tropical bird show. But, inevitably, it’s the resident bottlenose dolphins that prove the greatest crowd pleasers - displaying their immense intelligence, and acrobatic prowess, to packed audiences throughout the day.
For an experience you’ll never forget, you can also swim with the resident dolphins � for up to 90 minutes � in between shows (subject to pre-booking).
Also highly recommended is the park’s �4D’ cinema, which - through truly breathtaking animation �explores the devastating consequences of global warming, deforestation and the destruction of ocean habitats, which Zoomarine contends represent the three greatest threats currently facing the natural world.
On a lighter note, the eight-hectare park also has a funfair - which includes free roller-coasters and rides for the children � together with a number of restaurants, shops, amusements and two large swimming pools, to help you cool off during your stay.
Long stays
Arguably the most popular holiday attraction on The Algarve, however, is Aqualand, the largest of the area’s many water parks. Situated roughly 15 kms from Albufeira, the park has chutes and slides, waves and rides aplenty. Something, indeed, for the entire family (including those who would prefer a gentle swim, in the park’s semi-Olympic pool).
Needless to say, Aqualand also offers a terrace caf and restaurant, and a gift shop - in other words, all you’ll need to spend the entire day. Is it a tourist trap? Of course it is. Will the kids love it? Most certainly.
Prices are, for adults: �' 18.50. For children (4 to 10 years): �' 14.50.
Aqualand � like many local attractions � closes in the winter (from September to May). But this doesn’t stop a raft of holidaymakers joining John and his colleagues all year round. Indeed, the site is invariably well booked with �long-stayers’ between December and February.
In the best traditions of the HPB �club’, Holiday Property Bondholders visiting The Algarve during the cooler (wetter) winter months tend to make their own entertainment - arranging bridge tournaments, walks, bowling and boules. No golf, you say?
Well, usually not. Watching the relentless procession of golf bags rotating the airport luggage carousel, you’d expect more golfers to be resident on site. In reality, however - although there are a number of courses relatively close to Rocha Brava - keen golfers seeking superior (more challenging) courses tend to head further afield.
John’s long term second in command, English born Anne Martin, says, �Although we arrange a �getting to know you’ evening at the start of each week - and of course provide all the help and facilities they need - for the most part our guests make their own arrangements, hosting regular cheese and wine evenings, dinners in and out, and so on.�
Relaxing pursuits all � and utterly in keeping with this most tranquil location, which it seems provides a refuge from the worst of the British weather, long after the beaches have been deserted.
For more information on Rocha Brava � and 28 other exclusive destinations that you could enjoy as a Holiday Property Bondholder � visit www.hpbrochabrava.com.
Bond facts:
things you should know about the Holiday Property Bond
The Holiday Property Bond is a life assurance bond investing, after initial charges, in properties and securities. Properties are booked for a no profit �user-charge’ and Points issued with the Bond. There is a quarterly fee of around twenty-five pounds including VAT linked to RPI, with all other management fees paid from securities. Investment is from 4,000. Encashment may be made under the terms of the 'Holiday Satisfaction
