mum and kits

Question
Hi there an expert said i could probably get a definate answer from you about:-

my doe just gave birth to 4 babies unfortunatley the 1st one died. I wondered if i could ask a few questions as this is her first litter.

1. She is still bleeding from yesterday not loads just a little is this ok?

2. When is it safe to touch the kits without her killing them.

3. Is it safe to clean out her living quatersr leaving the nest?

4. When is it safe to clear away the nest or handle the nest? as sometimes we get little bug things in the hutch, and they have been especially liking the warm nest. no harm to the rabbits but yuk all the same.

5. Will they automatically suckle as when she was checked the other day all her fur covered her nipples she had plucked none out and the nipples where tiny.

Your advice will be greatly apreciated as this is my first time also and i keep getting different answers from people.

I hope they survive is nearly24hrs now i had a quick look this morning and they seemed wriggly enough.

Many thanks

Tracey

Answer
Hello, Tracy.

I'll just try to answer them in the order you gave them to me.

1. It is normal for there to still be some blood. Just keep an extra eye on her. If it does not subside in another day or worsens, you should consult a veterinarian.

2. While it is not technically unsafe to touch them at any point, I recommend waiting until they are out of the nestbox  which will be a few weeks of age. Before then, even with proper precautions you run the risk of angering the mother when you handle them. Since it's unnecessary to touch them, I recommend not doing it. Once they start eating solid food at 3-4 weeks you can touch them. Still be sure to not anger the mother.

In fact, I really tend to leave mothers alone. Rabbits are great mothers but are both nervous and territorial. Aside from cleaning the cage trays, feeding, watering and doing a glance over -- I really recommend letting both the mother and the kits be until they are getting out of the nest box on their own. I have a very low rate of lost litters with this strategy.

3. Ideally she should be in an all wire cage with a nest box for the kits. (see this website for more nest box information -- http://islandgems.net/nestbox2.html). Nest boxes are essential and you cannot go without one for the kits.

In such a case with solid floor, the waste falls through to a tray. These cages are much more sanitary than solid bottom cages. Since rabbits are prone to respiratory infections this is very important. Certain larger breeds or those with thin fur pads require mats in their wire cages. Very few giant breeds (French Lops, Checkered Giants and Flemish Giants)require solid bottom cages as they are too heavy for the wire. The rest of the 47 breeds can be on wire.

That being said, if you do have a solid bottom cage I would recommend switching. In the meantime, yes the cage will need to be cleaned out as normal. The kits should be in the nestbox, not on the floor of the cage. As a result, you will not need to worry much about bothering the nest. You can find these cages at mopst places like Rural King or Tractor supply. Pet stores usually do not have them. You can also visit Rabbit Dealer websites such as: http://www.kwcages.com/

4. The nestbox should be taken out around 4 weeks. By that time the kits will be on solid food and will be used to hoping in and out of the box with ease. Avoid taking it out before that time.

5. Rabbits nurse about once a day. Rabbits tend to be great mothers. Nature will take it's course.

Good luck and if you have any additional questions at all do not hesitate to ask. You might try visiting the following websites in the meantime:

http://www.arba.net (Membership is not just for breeders, many pet owners join as well. With membership you get a great guidebook and a bi-monthly magazine)

http://www.tranquilacresrabbitry.com/content/articles.asp

http://islandgems.net/

http://www.blueribbonrabbitry.com